Combines Setup on 62 hyped rotor

What do you mean -NO FUN, IJ Shoot, when a rain comes up we all gather at a friends house and watch my mother in law pull the cylinder out of a Gleaner just for fun! Makes a great tail gate party as well. We are thinking of starting an Olympic event of this as a sport! (does this mean our fans would be called Rotor-RootersIJ) This is the way WE set them up. On the factory extended bars option we remove the reverse long bars and replace them with two cylinder bars inplace of the 2 paddles that were part of the long reverse bar extention. On non factory extended bar we use four cylinder bars in liew of 4 paddles in every other row configuration. Everywhere there was a reverse bar which was removed we install a sharpened gusset AT THE CENTER STAR or where the center hole in the reverse bar was. large P3's -R6x-R7x - results in 4 bars being removed- two at discharge end, two in next row in. Where we think we might have a customer with a potential loss problem - high moisture wheat _ corn _ soybeans we pull an extra set one more row over the threshing grate - but you CANNOT put a gusser_disruptor over the threshing grate without cutting it down to the height of a cyl bar! (I forgot - in a hurry - and bought a grate - ouch) While out, as Hyper has pointed out, if one has a lot of green or damp material or grass (not the smoking kind) extend the third helical onto the grate section one section width. We install our CONCAVE special rasp bars - I had a call the other day where a customer had bolted in regular P3 bars in the grate THIS WIll NOT WORK! - or the cut down Deere_IH conventional bars, in the grate in about 1 foot sections untill loss -if any- is acceptable. We start at the discharge end and then install the next one closer to the thresher end and so on. So far so good. We also need those who are removing the bars to keep us informed as to backup bar wear. In conversations with Keller he has reports of only one combine with backup bar wear. We have had none. We will have a large P3 picture to post soon.

I hate to be picky but. Do you just have two gussets in where the 2 reverse bars were in second row over from thresher end. You said you remove revese bars next to paddles and put forward bars to stop sign. That would leave only two blank spots with gussets unless you put two over concave. Also do you cut f3 bars to fit down between sep grate bars or do you lay it on top of barsIJ I have a high wire sep. grate. If you put two gussets over concave do you stagger them with other gussets or do you put them in the same rowIJ Sorry for all the questions but I guess I am technical.

I'll jump in here to help Tim out a bit. Mount the F2 bars on top of the crossbars. Might, well definately, want to cut some strap steel to fit BETWEEN the crossbars under the F2 bars to keep them from shifting around. We didn't originally, tightened the crap out of them, and they still shifted and droped below one crossbar. However you do it, just make sure there's no way they will come loose!! I staggared by gussets so they aren't running in the same row. Tim will have to answer your other question... Good luck! Tom langan

OK, Corn_bean models had 4 reverse bars. Remove them and add 4 gussets where the center bolt was which bolts through the center star. The added bars only replace the paddles removed. IF one wants to remove two more foward bars in row 2 from RH side (these are the ones in the threshing area) one will have to lower the height of any added gusset to that of a cyl bar. The F concave rasp bars have to set up on top of the cross bars. Pictures might be forthcoming next week if the creeks don't rise.