Combines shaft monitoring problems again

[NDDan]

You must use ohmmeter. First get on the wires in plug at the module. Be sure to follow schematic so you are on the right two wires. You very likely got on the wrong wires somehow. Follow the wire color and terminal number. You should find approx 450ohms. The one wire will be red_white and other is the senser you are tring to check. If you have approx 450 ohms go back to senser and unplug it. If you still have 450 ohms you are on wrong wires or wrong senser. Turn shaft over by hand and set all legs on collar to just clear sender. Something you should know is all white_red (common)wires are tied to white_red wire that runs up to cab. I don't know what you would have for ohmmeter reading if two of these wires broke away from junction area within main harness. It would be easy enough to splice into white_red wire at sensor and then splice into white_red wire at a working senser. Have you found the holes in side of module where you can reach in with tiny screwdriver to tweak RPM at which light come onIJ let us know what you find out. Good luck

 

[Rolf]

G'Day Mailman We have had a similar problem with out 94 R62 machine on the clean grain senor playing up and coming on sometimes (I can still hear ROM cussing about it now!!) Had to progressively go along the sensor wires to each plug and unplug and clean ( spray some WD 40 type electrical cleaning solution in the plug and blow compressed air in to it afterwards) and had module sent away to check and all was ok there. Now to set up the speed's for alarms I hung the TT Module out of it's hole and engage the head and separator and slowly run the engine revs up to the normal operating revs UNDER lOAD (around 2220 to 2290 engine rev's at 24_26 lbs exhaust boost) then slow it down to a bit under 2200 (2180 RPM on engine tac) and adjust all the small screws in the TT modal with a small screwdriver till the lights just go off and the TT module's alarm stops. This should be a starting point for all the alarms you might find that they seem to stay on for longer when you first engage but you will be warned of any problems a lot earlier than before! I found a couple of alarms were at very low engine revs and would have damaged something if that system had needed to warn us about a slowed up system somewhere. Your engine alarm might be on as well and there is away to reset all that as well and the speedo calibration is in there to, but I will leave that to another time. Rolf

 

[mailman13]

So what makes the light go out when things are working correctlyIJ You are saying that the red-white wire and the colored sensor wire are a circuit until shaft rotation gets to a certain speed and kills the circuit, thus making the light go out, correctIJ By touching one probe to the red-white wire and the other probe to the colored sensor wire you should complete a circuit with 450 ohms of resistance correctIJ So does the colored sensor wire have a voltage reading when the separator is engaged, it has to rightIJ Trust me I have studied and restudied the wiring diagram. I just don't understand why running the new wires from one end of the circuit to the other didn't solve the problem. I spliced into the red-white wire under the console and the other sensors obviouusly are fed to this circuit past this point and are working. Will try what you suggest but I think I have already done most of what you have suggested. I might try the tweaker screws but no one has changed the settings and the light was going out earlier in the season. By the way it is the clean grain and spreader sensors and sometimes the tailings that stay on. Just frustrating. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[NDDan]

I'm sure there is some sort of voltage in both the common and sensor line but not anything I know of that is published. The passing of the legs be the sender cause some sort of pulse in the sending wire line which the module figures if this pulse it happening often enough. You need to get ohmmeter to check circuit starting right at module plug. Unplug the module to get on proper terminals but don't distort the terminals. If terminals have been spread you need to correct. Yes you go between the white_red and wire for senser in question to check your ohms. Have someone watch the ohmmeter reading when you go wiggle the wires connectors all the way to senser. Unplug the senser if you see the 450ish ohms to make sure your on the right one and or to see someone hasn't had plug apart at one time and screwed up position of a couple wires. You may need to go into plug at module and side counsel to just snug together all the connectors especially if you see ohms jumping around when you wiggle connector. We have replaced connectors at spreader more than once for it often sits up on ledge where it sits in a puddle of wet chaff if water has got in there. This sort of thing will show up right away with ohmmeter. I don't know why when you ran a new wire from sender side of its connector to module side of its connector and still didn't work if you indeed have a poor connection. Maybe if both wires to sender are bad. Then what would cause a working circuit to quit when you ran a parralel wire to its circuit. Something about wire in wrong location or being on wrong wire comes to mind again. You should go between these wires and good ground also to be sure there is no connection while wiggling harness all the way between module and senser. I truly think you will get onto something with ohmmeter tests and if that all checks out do the slowly raising engine RPM to see what RPMs the various lights go out at. If to close to rated speed you need to adjust the tweak screws. Do not force the screws beyond there stops. Screws line up with corresponding lights. Two screws for chopper. Bottom for switch on slow for slow chopper or beater speed and next one up for switch on fast for fast chopper. I hope something hear works out for you. Have a good one

 

[silver_streak]

check to make sure the guts in the sensor IE the reddish orange rubber piece that fits inside the shell of the sensor case is tight and that you can't move the rubber part in relation to the shell. My R62 Spreader sensor came loose in this manner putting the spreader warning off intermittently driving me crazy.