Combines smashed unloading auger

[jp]

This should be an easy fix, especially since it is on the end. Take the end boot off, then the end cap. The end cap should come off the end of the auger taking the bearing with it. At the front of the auger there is a little door with four bolts, take that off. This will allow you to take the pin that holds the auger in out, letting you slide the auger out with a loader or something. You should be able to then pound the outside tube back to what it should be with ease, the metal isn't very thick. When the tube is back the way it should be, do the above in reverse order, making sure that the front of the horz. is timed right with the vertical auger, and when the end cap si put back on the auger is centered as well as you can get it in the tube.

 

[Ham]

I'm not so sure... what about the bearing in the centre of the auger tube..IJ

 

[jp]

In his original post he only mentioned the auger tube being damaged, so I went from that. He also didn't say what combine he has and if the horz. auger is one piece or two, so I am assuming it is a one piece like ours is. We replaced the unloading auger this summer on ours and if I hadn't cut myself badly on the sharp flighting we could have easily done it in a couple hours. From what I know about the two piece, couldn't you then just slide out the outer portion of the auger, then go about reforming the outer tubeIJ I also wouldn't go about cutting down the auger and tube, it would be much much more hassle than it would be worth.

 

[plowboy]

Thanks for the comments guys. I have a 1987 1680 with the long auger and the flighting is not damaged. Can I slide the auger out in one piece or is there a center support bearingIJ

 

[jp]

We replaced the one in our 1990 1640 this summer, one piece. It was the 172" auger and had no center bearing. I think the longer auger may have one, but you will have to talk to someone other than me to be sure. One word of advice, be very careful handling that auger. Although yours might not be as worn as ours was, it may still cut you. I sliced my wrist open down to the bone without feeling a thing, needing a trip to the emergency room to stop the bleeding and staple me up.

 

[max_doubt]

New combines use a Huck bolt to attach, very secure, but not many dealers have access to the tool. I know many have been bolted, but rivets would probably be the most permanent, and mash the most fingers. I don't know many operators that haven't backed into or swung (swinged, swangIJ) the auger into something. Some of us have to do it more than once to really remember. Keep your chin up and stay safe.

 

[mo_farm]

If I remember correctly we drilled the old rivets out and bolted the new tube on.

 

[T__langan]

Been there, done that. It sucks. R52 vs oak tree - tree won. We bolted the new tube to the swivel. Consider yerself lucky if you just lost the tube - we wrecked the $wivel too.

 

[meadowgreen]

Just put a new tube on our R52. We used rivets at the swivel end. They use a 1_4" rivet, but the holes on new tube were 3_16. Used a hyd jack to hold bottom of rivet firm. Used bolts on the upper end.

 

[mo]

You flat landers have it easy. After driving N_R's for umteen hours I got into the MH yesterday and while unloading into the tallll semi from the down hill side turned the leveler back on and promply as ordered the combine leaned it into the trailer. Of course if the button had been on the hydro handle......Anyway just one more way to screwup.