Combines Still Have Rotor loss With 2188

I would run at least 4 straight seperator bars and go with the keystock grates. We ran 3 keystocks in wheat this year. I see no reason to run the vanes slowed down more than the mid position. You can always try pulling every other wire out of that third small wire concave. That will be the equivalent of a large wire.

How low are you cutting and whats the weather like when you hit the fieldIJ If you cut low on a cloudy day at 16-20% you're going to have rotor loss no matter what. If you have access to all three keystock grates, and your running a heavy straw load, definately put the keystocks in. Even though your engine speeds fine, how many rpm does the rotor drop from empty to fullIJ When you pull down about 50-60 rpm, the rotor is full. If you are running a heavy straw load, there is plenty material for the grain to rub against, and if you're not cracking too much, I'd speed the rotor up to help with the centifugal seperating.

Brodale. It has been my experience that it applys to pretty much all machines. Even green, silver and yellow. I used to run a 1440 and a 1460 before we aquired the 1680. We did many trials at different rotor speeds and found 50-60 rpm drop to be generaly the most efficiant setting. In general the combines are all proportioned about the same. ie. rotor size to cleaning area ratio. Please understand that these are only my findings and opinions. I find you can set the machine for more drop but it comes at a price. The harder you push it the more experienced the operater has to be. If the machine is pushed too heavy, any slight variation in load will cause loss. At setting the machine for 50-60 rpm drop, it usually is a forgiving machine to run so the operater can actually pay attention to the other things he or she needs to watch for. It, for me anyway, has been an excellent guide for making the machine easy to set and very forgiving to run. Some will say running the machine by the rotor tach ruins your capacity in tough conditions. I watch these same people spend more time with their machine stoped to make hourly adjustments. If you have the desire to do your own test, I'd sure like to hear what you find. I use many different ways to study our machine, but I find the "quick kill" to be the most inforative method there is. It shows very closly how the machine would look in operation.

I've worked 1400, 1600 and 2100 Axial Flows and I also think that increasing the rotor speed is best. I also check the rotor-tach and like to run at anything between 30 and 60 lower than empty speed, this is generally fine. I don't like having to stop for settings every hour, and this is the way that I keep running. As material dries down or dampens, the decrease in rotor speed varies, obviously, but the most important thing to remember is to keep it full. And to conclude, the very best way to know when it's full, is to know your machine well.

Thanks guys, I will try speeding rotor up today. Straw is tough today so I will try 850 and see what happens before I go changing grates. No time today, thanks.

I have found turbo boost to be a more universal measure of machine load than rotor RPM. By adding a pressure guage in the cab (and unhooking the wastegate on the turbo if you have one) you can really see what is happening to engine HP output. The guage is extremely fast to react and easy to monitor. The fundamental limitation of the machine is often HP, and it seems more logical to measure it as directly as possible, rather than inferring it through the rotor speed. The relationship between the drop off in rotor speed and the engine HP output can vary significantly from machine to machine due to factors such as injection pump settings or the condition of the rotor drive components. In all cases, a person must get to know their individual machine and there will always be variations, but boost pressure seems to work really well for the non-electronic engines.

You likely need more rotor speed. The Axial Flow system uses centrifugal force to separate the grain from other material in the rotor cage. Bob

I sped the rotor up today and it seemed to make a significant difference. The straw was chewed up a little more but that's not my issue. I am going to pull every other wire out of my small wire concave and put it in position three of the concaves, and add at least one keystock grate. There is hardly nothing on the ground when straw get's dry but there is a bit when things are tough, but nothing like it was before. Thanks for the tips, I will let you guys know how I make out tomorrow night when I add the above mentioned to the cage tomorrow,

I dont understand why you guys mess with your combines with all this different crap! I live in central Illinois and everybody runs stock combines. If you dont have enough power have your service guy do it. Hell it only takes about 10 minute. I got a 2188 and harvest seed beans for Dekalb and Asgrow and I always get the top premium! leave them alone and DRIVE!

We did that for about 10 years with our 1680. Now we get in and drive a lot faster, loose a lot less out the back, and have a lot cleaner sample. I'm not going back.