It surely won't hurt to check concave but I doubt that is the problem. Hopefully you have your header feeding fairly even and feeder shocks are installed. You may need to snug nuts against spring to get good snap while latching. You need to be sure flatwashers next to heads of bolts are loose when door is latched. Now for the main things we have done to prevent door from opening with normal to tough crop. Install filler across top left corner of feeder and extend helical over it to prevent third helical from gearbox from dumping back onto concave (this helps a bunch). Better yet is to install steep pitch helicals on thresher side of cage (with this setup the first helical from gearbox will dump onto filler across feeder opening). An inbetween way of getting this done is leave first helical from gearbox alone but extend 2nd helical from gearbox to dump onto filler across feeder with a medium length steep pitch helical and then copy this for the third helical from gearbox. Next thing is to keep things moving on seperator side and to do this if you want to keep standard Gleaner rotor you remove the reverse cylinder bars and install sweeps. Also be sure cylinder bars are extended to area ahead of discharge opening. Now I would suggest to install hump onto rock door rather than convert to sump especially if you don't have rock problems. Hump will improve feeding between chain and cylinder as well as respond to foreign object better than the flat rock door. Sump can hurt the feeding as well as it will decoy the very problem you are having. Sump will cause extra stress on feed chain and many people ignore cleaning it until they have major injestion problem. You will likely forget you have the rock door but still have the portection if you do the hyper tips. If you have any questions just ask. Good luck