Combines timing unload auger

I've never really paid attention to timing. One of my guys tries to line up ends of flighting. I think if there was any difference I would trail the folding flighting by as close to 1_4 turn as possible. A couple tricks we have done for edible beans is extend the 1_4" flighting in bottom of auger to within 3_8" of bushing support. This reduces the dead area by 1 to 2". Then you can taper leading edge of bushing support bracket to allow crop to flow by easier. Also we have pivoted bushing support clockwise one hole. This helps get bracket out of the way for edible beans. This can't be done without more work on the 14" systems for you will have interferance. Then I'm not sure how much it helps but we have did just what you suggested and that is intersect existing suction flighting on swinging auger with the replacement 1_4" replacement section. Now the problem you might find is the shock absorber inside swinging auger next to universal joint could be spinning out to easy. They went from rubbers that were 4" to 5" a few years ago. If that is slipping you will normally hear a thug noise just prior to electric clutch slipping out. Good luck

Just curios if the two machines were the same model yearIJ The latest model may have a higher pitch to increase capacity. Belt drive pulley and or chain sprockets may be a few teeth different. Double flighting in the up auger may be a slow pitch for the first 18". When I had ours out it did seem to have more flights per inch of shaft at the bottom(three years of memory ago).

The 62 is a 96 and the 72 is a 02. Great machines just a little slow on the unload side, we can't run either machine full open on the auger cover slides as this will cause belt failure so we always cary a spare unload belt behind the seat of one of the machines.

We put a one turn extra flight to make a double flight on the bin side of the bush. Carved the ends of the flights [ 5mm thick flight material ] out to fit over the bush but still allowed about a 1_4" clearance to the the bush supports. Definitely made a difference, particularly in the power required but the R62 is still not as quick unloading, by the stop watch and weigh bridge, as our original N7. Found that when we removed the bin flow control slides over the bin auger cover that over the years, a couple of 110 kg gorillas had been dropping down onto the cover and had bent it down onto the auger. The top of the cover, under the slides, had then been ripped and worn out by the auger. If desperate and you want a heavy, say 5 or 6mm thick section of reasonably good auger flighting in a hurry, try this; [ hope I can explain clearly! ] Draw or calculate a right angle triangle; 1_ One side of the triangle is the length of the pitch of the flight. 2 _ The second side is equal to the circumference of the actual diameter of the flighting of the auger. 3 _ The hypotenuse or longest side, is now the circumference of the circle of the material that is required to make the new flight. 4 _ Convert the circumference [ 3 above ] to the diameter and cut a circle out of the material you are using for the new flighting. This will be a circle of material much larger than the diameter of the flighting of the auger. 5 _ Measure the radius or depth of the flight you are replacing from the outer circumference of the flighting to the shaft. [ or you can calculate this very quickly by just subtracting the shaft diameter from the auger diameter ] Cut a hole in the centre of the new circle to make a ring that has the same depth of material from the outer edge to the inner circle as the as the depth of the original flighting from the outer edge to the shaft. This inner hole will also be much larger than the shaft diameter. 6 _ Carefully cut the circle into a number of equal segments like an orange. On an 8 inch diameter auger I would have at least eight and possibly 10 or 12 pieces. 7 _ Place one end of each segment in a vice and with a shifting spanner or similar, carefully twist the segment through about 30 degrees and in the right direction! 8_ Place each segment into position on the shaft to make the section of flight and tack weld together. Weld all the segments together and flush grind the welds on the active side of the flight. This will give you a good strong and fairly accurate flight which goes a bit over one full turn and will last as long as a formed flight. When I have needed a quick result, I have used this method of building heavy flighting, including up to 1_2" thick ones, for over 45 years. Cheers.

We replaced the brass bushing with a pillow block ball bearing. The space avaliable on the shaft does not allow a lock collar type brng. Found a bearing which has a tapered slieve and spanner type (truck axle nut) nut which pulls the tapered slieve tight to the shaft and brng inner race. The brng mount is made to fit and bolt into the existing holes so the set up can revert to "stock" with no modification. This coupled with reducing the driven sprocket on my R72 from a 45t to a 40t made it run smoooooth and fast. No more clatter bang on shut down. It coasts to a smooth stop. No more plugged brass bushing grease zerks, replacing brass bushings and expensive shafts. Caution. If there is exceptional wet crap in the tank revert to the slower setup or put the baffels way down. The Agco belt to drive the unloader is too long causing to much "V" at the tightener. Belt only needs to be long enough for installation. Also install a stationary idler on the front side of the unlader belt to further reduce the "V". This increases belt torgue due to increased wrap and improves belt life because the inner circumferance of the belt does not crack out. Again, Caution not suitable crudy crops. This set up will wipe out and off the key on the driven sprocket in adverse conditions. I think s double keys shaft and sprocket will be next winters improvement to make this setup 100% reliable.