Combines To owners of early 21 Series

Ham, sorry to hear of your misfortune. I did have a post on here titled "21_2300 Series unloader tips" about a year and a half or 2 years ago, but would imagine it has been gone for awhile with M. Gorden changing servers and such. It detailed a lot of what you have suggested. One other thing you might want to do is to install the orifice in the unloader engagement cylinder to slow down the harsh engagement on the unloader on all 21s and early 23s. I can find a partn if you like and its very easy to install. Good luck!

Thanks!

Well, Ham, I'll give you a short history lesson on the early 2100 series unloaders. Originally, where the horizontal auger was split actually had the hex shaft welded into the auger flighting closest to the combine unloader elbow, and had a 3-5" hex shaft sticking out of the flighting that stuck into a female set of splines on the outer flighting. Case determined that due to the welding process, the hex shaft was becoming crystallized, causing the shaft to break in much the same manner as you described. This was changed to the current setup, both flightings have a female hex that a 6"-8" free-floating hex shaft fits into(I would imagine this is what you have now). One other thought to this problem was the very rapid engagement of the unloader, especially with guys who did not fully unload their unloaders before they shut them off. It was thought that this created a shock load at the hex shaft that contributed to the problem mentioned above. So, when early 2300 series were being produced, Case came out with this orifice fitting(pn 327679A1) to slow down the engagement momentarily. Where does it fitIJ look at your unloader engagement cylinder. You will see a fitting between the hose and cylinder on both hoses. Remove the fitting from the top hose and install the orifice fitting in its place. If you are quick, you will not lose much oil in the process. Good luck!

Thanks again. I had the welded hex shaft, but that has been changed to the floating one with this update.

I ran into one more problem my dealer should have told me but forgot to until I had replaced three bearing hangers hex shafts and augers in about a three day period. The hex shaft is free floating, but the customer is supposed to drill a hole through the final auger tube about three inches in and put a half inch bolt or pin in like the old machines had at the elbow. This will keep the hex shaft from free floating right on inside and losing contact with the front half. I guess I could have figured that out myself, but was in too much hurry at the time.