Combines TORQUE TURN IJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJIJ

[Farm_Kid2]

If you have about 2 bolt diameters of thread engagement, then the threads will be stronger than the bolts and you shouldn't have to worry about the threads stripping. Were the bolts necked down in the middle and only for single useIJ If so, they are counting on the 270 degrees yielding the bolts. Personally, I find this kind of arrangement disturbing, but lots of engines have it and seem to have less headgasket problems than the old style. You are using the correct headgasket for that set of bolts, rightIJ

 

[sri]

I hope so,they all were ordered together.Instructions with gasket were not what came with bolts.

 

[Emerald]

The procedure you are referring to is called "torque to yield". Be careful of the engine block number before going this route! As far as I know, only the latest engines use this method. The bolt kit should have the numbers listed.

 

[mickyd]

just overhauled a 466 out of a 8440 4wd, rod and head bolts are torque turn. i believe this is to "stretch the bolt" {pre-stress} and the bolts are designed for it. do not use the instructions for bolts marked "special" i believe that is for marine applications. good luck

 

[sri]

Well I'm learning a lot about how many bolt sets there are for this tractor.The bolts that I got for my engine block number were the right bolts, the way to tighten them was for the bolts marked 'special'.Good thing I stopped last night.I still started the sequence at 60 instead of 75 and made one 90 degree turn.This morning I called dealer out west,figured they did a lot more of these than local dealer.Talked to an ace mechanic who said that its a good thing I stopped when I did.For the bolts I got the proper way was to tighten to 75 then go 90 to 110 degrees he said they did 6 tractors just this spring.Well being as how I started this at 60 instead of 75 at least they weren't over torqued,the problem was to figure out how to get the 15 pounds of extra torque,at the dealers he said they would start all over with new head gasket,but if it was his he would just go an extra one eighth turn and go.I settled on this way.but didn't want to toque past 175 so got a bigger torque wrench just to see where this left me.It worked out to just about the one eighth he suggested so that is where they all are now.I hope it works will know tomorrow. Bolts marked special are for a higher serial number motor,This motor was made 1992.I did think the ones I got were special they are marked 180 SPS but I don't know what the SPS stands for. Thanks for all the help,if it runs I'll post back tomorrow night if it blows a gasket I won't have to You'll hear me

 

[joe]

This method of putting down head bolts is the best to use. What it does is to eliminate most of the inacurate torque reading caused by the friction of the threads and the bottom of the bolt head. The higher torque needed on a bolt, the more the friction adds up, oil helps, but doesnt solve this problem. This allows you to get the correct bolt streach which places a consistant load on the head. So you torque the bolt to the fist spec, and use a breaker bar to get the additional degrees of turn. Normally this also gets rid of the need to re-torque the head bolts and reset to tappets after getting the motor to running temp. Following the instructions from the lattest tech manual is best, as some info in the kits maybe out of date, or older stock.

 

[sri]

well she's running again,put it on the no-till drill last two days and it seems to be alright.Thanks to all of you for info,it helps to know that somebody out there has been through it before and can steer us in the right direction. Thanks again