Combines TR 87 rotors

Hello TAZ, The first thing I would do is to reinstall the rotor coupling chains or secure the back of the rotors before you remove the front plate. This is to prevent the rotors from sliding out unexpectedly. After the front plate is off, you can remove one rotor at a time. I just use a cherry picker like the ones used to remove engines in vehicles. I have a thick walled pipe that fits tight on the front shaft of the rotor with a short loop of chain on the end to attach the cherry picker. It is best to have two people, one person on the front and the other to "walk" the rotor out from the side with a long prybar or piece of wood. When you get the rotor half way out, lower it and remove the pipe. You can then wrap a chain around the rotor at the balance point between the second and third set of rasp bars and lift it with the cherry picker to remove it the rest of the way. It depends on what has been harvested, but I'm sure the rotors need some things replaced or rebuilt. On your first rebuild I would take it to the dealer to show you what needs to be fixed. On the trough under the auger, you can get a piece of flat metal rolled to fit or New Holland might have a liner that covers the full length of the tank. Rod

I tried to email you a little info, but it didn't work -- is the address shown correctIJ

Rod is right, put those couplers back on and remove the front plate. He has a good way to remove them outlined also. To balance the rotors all you need is 2 stands that will hold the rotor at each end. The stands need a bearing of some sorts attached to them to be attached to the stubs on the rotors. The way we did it was, our shop vise is made on a heavy stand that can be moved. So we bolted a flange bearing on to a piece of heavy angle with the angle notched out to accept the bearing and secure it in the vise. Them on a heavy work bench we did the same thing by bolting it to the bench. We just move the vise to the bench and set the rotor in the bearings. You will see the weights used by NH attached to the ends of the rotors. Although it may be neccesary to weld some metal on to the rotor if it is out of balance in some instances. Just spin the rotor with your hands and make sure that it doesn't end up in the same finish point each time. Add or subtract the weights as you see fit till it spins freely with no determined finishing points. It's really very simple in case I have confused you. like I said before, if you can, crawl up in those rotor cages with a flashlight and inspect the cages themselves and the nuts that are welded to the backside of the rotor cage. Those nuts hold the rotor gearboxes bolts which can and do break their weld if a rotor gets out of balance. If they look okay, have someone try to tighten them up while you are in there to make sure they are tight and the welds are not broken. Good luck and let us know if that gets the shake out of her which I'm sure it will. JD

They are right put the coupling chain back on mostly for safety.The grain bin bottom will soon need a liner. NH has a stainless steel one for repacements.You can reflight the unloading auger. Theu-joint section probably needs to be from the factory.Good luck!

Thanks for all the information, I have printed, them all, and will take them to the shop for reference. Once and Thanks,TAZ