Combines transition cone 1688

[swede]

I think you're already answering your own question with the facts:it's the off-season,the rotor is out,and you've already patched some thin spots. I don't have much experience with loewen parts,but I have no reason to think they are sub-standard.Buy the heaviest cone you can afford.Replacement parts usually don't last as long as the originals;don't know why,just don't. I preach this all the time when a rotor is out-crawl up inside the cage and inspect the vanes real good.Actually,it probably is time and money better spent to just replace them with new,unless they have only been in for a short time[rock damage etc.].When the bottom edge loses it's square edge,it is becoming lazy as far as moving the crop.Think of the rotor as being an agitator,and the vanes are like threads that move the crop along through.Now is the best and easiest time to do it.Not a time or area to save only a few bucks. Before you crawl in,grab a can of Never-Sieze and lather up the stub shaft on the rotor gear box for re-assembly. If your rear drive coupling is original,now is the best time to replace that with a newer,improved one. Check the gearbox for leaks. I'm not trying to make your partsman rich,but there is a time and place to give the most critical inner parts a good inspection and replacement as needed.Then when it's all done,you can sleep at night knowing you didn't skip something. Good luck and be safe putting the rotor back in.

 

[Old_Pokey]

We put the heavy lowen in ours. That thing is built heavy duty. The only thing is, make sure the seller garranties the fit. Ours had to have a little extra work done to get the feederhouse to fit right. Definatly price the CNH part. That will insure that you never buy CNH oem again

 

[Deadduck]

I'll echo what Swede and Old Pokey have already said. You won't probably won't make it through the next season with the old cone. The heavy duty CaseIH cone is $1200 or so. I've heard the heavy lowen is good, that's what I would go with. I would suggest the 52 hole cone with the heavy vanes. Get the stainless T-Bolts to put the vanes and cone in with, as the heads won't wear off. And with the rotor out, definitely replace the vanes if they've been in a while. If they're not square on the edge, they're worn out. The ext. wear vanes last a lot longer and are bigger, which seems to make them work better. As Swede said, this is what moves the crop, not the rotor. Check you elephant ears out well, and check the rasp bars. Also inspect the front bearing holder, if it's worn smooth it will let stalks wrap around it and casue problems. Definitely replace the front bearing. If you've never replaced the rear rotor coupling, replace it. The rubber bushings will be worn out, and it's likely splines are worn. It will cause vibrations if worn and can break the bolts and let the rotor come loose, which can equal MAJOR dollars. Replace the bolts too. Also check your concaves out. If they are worn smooth on the inside, they won't thresh nearly as well. You can weld a bead down each wire with stainless rods to get them back in shape. I know this sounds like a lot, but it's easier to get things back in shape now than later.

 

[Wolffman]

Is what workingIJ