Combines Turning Brakes on F3

[tbran]

the brakes can be unbolted from the disc and there is only one o ring. The later pistons are not metalic so be careful. I would loosen off on the bleeder and pry the pads back and inspect first. You don't use them much so if they have a 1_4" or more of friction material left I would probably fix the master and see what happens here first. The masters are easy to remove, prime them on the bench vise before installing them back on the combine. Using a power bleeder vacuum is almost a must. You can pick one up at AUTOZONE or like place for $25 bucks or less.

 

[mark]

Thanks for your reply.Yes there is plenty of pad left. they must have never been used much. I will try the rebuilt masters first. I was concerned the calipers maybe frozen since it appears they had little usage.

 

[tbran]

As I said , loosen the bleeders and get a big pry bar in and push the piston back in the same as a car (they are made by Chrysler by the way) front disc brakes. Also make sure the rotor disc is loose on the shaft and the brake hsg has a little slack. IT is the slack and vibration that pushes back the piston and keeps the pads from heating and wearing out.

 

[soy_breeding_boy]

tbran, Are the brakes on an F2 ('81) Hard to remove. I have RWA on mine and I believe that the wheel brakes are dragging (this is causing the problems that I mentioned earlier on this site). looking at the book it seem that I could remove the pins from the bands, removing the bands but leaving in place the plate assembly. I would also probably remove the foot pedals and cap the lines. This way if I ever sold the machine the brakes would be able to be put back on without to much trouble for the new owner. I am wondering if this will work, if not could you offer another suggestion. Thanks

 

[tbran]

No, not really. Slide back the couplers and pull the stub shaft, unbolt the cover and the expanding Bendix type brake will come out. These brakes are similar to the ones used on AC 170-190 tractors. The spline count is different in one hub. The outter bands can be unpinned and relined unless they are the bonded type. (tisco blkad17 is the part no.) Remove the nuts on the adjustment verticle bolt and the piston and reseal and replace if rusted. Unless the pads are totally worn to the rivets reuse them after light sanding as you won't use them much anyway. The real culprit is the springs which can rust through and let the expanding part act like the brake has been applied. Renew all springs.

 

[mark]

The rotor disc is loose on the shaft.I opened both bleeders.However when I pryed on the pads I couldn't get them to move.It appears that most of travel would be on the pad to the outside as the rotor is close to the inside pad.Does it take alot of force to move them IJ I don't like to put alot of force on it if it should take alot.

 

[tbran]

The piston is on the bleeder side. Place a long pry spoon between the disc rotor and the PAD and put quite a bit of slow steady pressure. If it is a metal piston push hard, it may be stuck _ rusted so lubeing might help. If it is the fiber _clay type be gentle as it will not rust and can be reused after cleaning the housing if it is stuck. I think one can remove the bleeder and gently tap the piston out as a last resort. The best I can remember one can change the pads without disassembly on the l_M_R can't say for sure on the F3 but proabaly can. There are two short bolts that secure the pads. Removing on can give extra working room. When the pedal is pushed the piston pushes the piston out and it pushes the pad against the rotor and the rotor moves a short distance till it contacts the other pad. The caliper assy doesn't float quite as much as one on a truck or car thus the importance of greasing the rotor zerk.

 

[mark]

Well it was frozen. I had to remove the caliper and tap the metal piston out. It was very clean however one of the bleeders had alot of crud in it. i cleaned everything up and have got new o rings. So I plan on reassembling and reinstalling this weekend.just awaiting the rebuilt master cylinders. there is plenty of pad left and the rotor slides freely. anything else i need to do or be aware of IJIJ