Combines Used the socket on feeder chain trick

A flat wrench works just as well plus you have a little more to hang on to.

I haven't heard that one. Please explain how it's done.

Try a 2 or 3 inch piece of broom stick that way if you lose it it dont hurt any thing

I use a 3_4 in bolt with a wire attached. put it in the sproket tooth under the chain. roll the chain backwards and when the chain gets higher than the sproket, then the chain will jump over the sproket and back into line. with the wire attached you can pull the bolt out, close it up and go!!!without the wire you may have to search for the bolt.quick easy and fast !!! great tip have done it several times.

Using a 1_2" wrench (seems to work the best) lay it between 2 upper teeth on sprocket with the jumped chain. While rolling the feeder shaft backwards the wrench will be piched between the chain and the sprocket. Once the wrench is about half way around the chain will slide over it and fall back into it's proper cogs. Continue rolling the feeder shaft backwards and retrieve your wrench once it becomes free. In reality anything that fits between the cogs will do the trick.

Had my chain jump for the second time last night (maybe it is just a coincidence). After reviewing earlier postings I will slack off the bolts for the slats on right and centre chains, rotate conveyor, then retighten just in case the chain was twisted. Upper drive cogs look fine, chains are even, no bent slats, tension is equal on the springs and the chain is quiet. Is there anything else I should monitor_observe_doIJ David

Be sure to check that your anti-wrap guards are up to spec. We had to replace a set this fall as the ends had worn down 3_4" shorter than the originals. Once they wear, material will start to wrap (especially if it's wet_green) at the ends of the anti-wrap guards thus creating a jumped chain when a wrapped lump ends up between the cogs.

Was that the front or rear chain and what year and modelIJ We'll give you some ideas with a little more info.

Hello Dan, Sorry, front feeder chain on my 1986 R7 is the one that gave me problems, but not today, so maybe things are corrected. It almost seems like the spring on the right side (from the drivers seat) wasn't pushing the front drum forward very hard-I worked it back and forth several times; don't know if there was rust or dirt but it does seem to move more easily. Question: Those front tension springs are 20 years old (I'm sure they must be tired),have you ever replaced (or would you recommend changing) the front springsIJ Is there a heavier spring availableIJ Would the springs from an R70 fitIJ Thanks David

No problem Dave. Sometimes makes a lot of difference on year and model so often times a guy should ask rather than assume. One thing to keep in mind is often times it is the rear chain that causes the problem with front. Rear chain must keep material pulled away or you have instant problem. Any chance floor was built up with mud or something between the two chains! Make sure floor isn't wearing threw causing material to snag up. Is rear chain out of self tentioningIJ Rear chain should have slats that are at least as agresive as front (maybe grind slat square if rounded). Be sure rear feed belt tentioner is keeping slack out of belt when under load. I never moved upper stops away from max lift position and bottom stops set in mid position for rear chain. I don't think springs will lose enough tention to make a difference and I would think R60-70 springs would be the same. I think it mostly boils down to a hard to convey crop and condition you are in. If it was not curable by normal means I would think about removing the hump inbetween the front and rear chain and making it flat. Best of luck