Combines What s a 68

tbran

Guest
The 68" or extended pitch helicals are an option to move material through the cylinder quicker at a lower rpm such as edible beans. We can report that we have successfully installed steep pitch helicals on the thresher side and transitioned or mated them with the regular pitched helicals on the separator side with good success. We shimmed these 1_16 closer to the cyinder as well. More capacity due to less double pass threshing (the helical extention is manditory) . Natk has also installed steep pitch on some machines all the way through with good results on the large p3. This blending of steep and regular also works expecially well on the R50 style. less loss, less cobb break up, less HP requirements - again this is our experiance..
 

ahbecalm

Guest
Where can I find part numbers for the steep pitch helicals for an R50IJ With reverse bars fastened to the seperator cage floor in the 8 o'clock AND the 4 o'clock positions, I've still got 1 1_2 to 2 bushels corn rotor loss in 150 bu_a yield. More cob break up than usual this year too.
 

T__langan

Guest
Do you have every other row of wires removed from your concavesIJ That made the biggest difference of all on our R50 when it came to corn loss. Tom langan
 

ahbecalm

Guest
Yes every other wire removed from low wire concave. One year the thresher concave, next year (this year) the seperator. Each removal gave a 1 bushel_acre improvement. This season I'm also running the intake helical wedge. Could it be my 7_8" spaced rasp bars are too aggressiveIJ What about adding flat perforated cage material over the open grate on the bottom between the stationary reverse barsIJ I really appreciate any help or suggestions.
 

NDDan

Guest
Steep pitch (68") kit is for the large P3s only. P_N 71373492 is the complete kit but I add a couple to it when I install the whole kit. The long bars in kit are P_N 71373494. The medium bars are P_N 71373495. The short bars are P_N 71373496. I would order a long bar for your R50 for you will surely have enough helical to transfer material from 1st helical from gearbox to the helical filler over feeder piece. Then Some left over to extend 2nd helical from gearbox into seperator grate area. This should help keep nice even mat of material over complete concave without double passing to much. I don't think you are going to want to fasten cage material over seperator grate without removing the rest of wires and pluging exposed holes. Don't know what stationary rasp bars you are using but they could be helping to break up cops. Did you contemplate removing every other cylinder bar next to discharge and maybe even the next row toward concave to limit broken cobs. Another trick I heard of but never needed to try is run a couple helical straight for and aft between the helicals on removable door on seperator side. That may gently roll over the corn husks to complete seperator without grinding it up. Could be you could remove stationary rasp if that works. Removing a couple helicals on seperator side will slow material some too but one should try not do anything to cause the constipation thing. I run rotor sweeps in the large P3s in corn and they only seem to help but can't say on the small P3 at this point. They will surely help keep things moving even if you have installed some pegs threw cage or stationary rasp bars to tear up husks a bit. What do you thinkIJ Good luck
 

ahbecalm

Guest
Thanks Dan, I recycled P3 Reverse Bars by trimming the edges to fit the 1 1_2" space of the seperator grate, leaving the edges sharp. looks like I shot myself in the foot. The F2 bars ramp up. What I wanted to avoid was using the foreward rasps on half of the bar, I also notice the F2 bars stand 1 1_4" tall. I'll take a look at John Deere rasp bars, all reverse angle, and check how tall they stand. I also have a neighbor with an F (engine fire). Midway Farm Equipment in Mountain lake (3 hours away) has a good selection of salvage combines for the F2 bars if needed as well as the grate material. While I'm at it I'll ask their parts man for the grate wire plug kit. Yes we tried removing every other rasp bar in seperator area in Soy Beans twice, once using discharge paddle gussets as disrupters. No improvement in rotor loss in beans but a 30% to 40% increase in engine load. Next we removed the gussets, did not reinstall rasp bars running the backup bar bare. Still no improvement in rotor loss. For corn we reinstalled the 4 foreward rasp bars, however with the sharp edge reverse bars attached to the grate, looks like that's my problem as to cob breakage. Using the recommended method with F2 bars should be my next course of action. With rain in the forecast we might get to make some changes this season yet. When you say straight fore and aft between the helicals do you mean paralel to rotationIJ With all foreward rasp bars this sounds like a good idea. How do you roll a bar (channel iron) to that diameterIJ If you know of a ready made hard steel bar that would be great, otherwise, a machine shop can do it for us. That also sounds like something to try on the floor either in addition to, or instead of, stationary rasp bars. We only have corn and Soy Beans, so, high volume constipation is not a problem. I'm not familiar with what you call "rotor sweeps".
 

NDDan

Guest
I too made some stationary rasp bars for seperator grate out of P3 bars. I made a pair of them from forward (lH) P3 bars and a pair of reverse (RH)P3 bars. They do stand up quite a ways even when cut to sit down on wires. They would stand up even further for the guys with high wire seperator grate. They look just to aggresive to use. I think the thing to do if a guy was to use the stationary P3 rasps is to cut the leeding edge to allow material to smoothly flow into the rasp. I wonder if when you talk about the F2 bars you are thinking cylinder bars. The F2 bars they are talking about are the stationary rasp bars for concave area of F2 or any of the old Gleaners with closed concave. As far as helicals straight for aft I do mean parralel with cylinder bar rotation. A little twist in vise and a bit of straightening out the curve, you could make a normal bar will fit nicely between the helicals. I would maybe leave a gap of an inch or two to the pressure side of helical to prevent major pinch point. Another trick you may not of tried is one (1) reverse bars spinning in one or all locations. One bar in any one position will not gobble up a lot of power but will you might say ruffle the feathers a bit. The old P1s had an angle iron flow retarder available in a three or five bolt pattern. They fastened right next to discharge straight around the cage. They would certainly cause localized constipation and should be avoided in my opinion. Get me your email address and I'll get you picture of sweeps along with a couple proto rotors. Take care
 

ahbecalm

Guest
When I looked at the picture on page 2 of P3 cage mods the rasp bars look like cylinder rasp bars to me as opposed to concave bars which I have seen in As, Fs, and C2s which look like channel iron. I think I understand now,I can take a helical and slightly straighten the twist to get a different lateral movement causing a material rolling action. If my brother agrees, I can remove the section to add the additonal helicals and at the same time remove the remaining seperator cage wires , then add on flat perforated cage material to the grate. With day after day of rain in the forecast, I might be able to do all that this season. What confounds me is how similar my neighbor's R62 looks to our R50 except for width left to right, or lenght intake to discharge. His corn loss looks like birth marks, our loss looks like chicken pox.
 
 
Top