Combines what the problemIJ

[mo_farm]

Make sure the fingers on the feeder beater are set as low as they will go for beans. Forgot to change mine once when I went from corn to beans and it would not pull the beans in untill it got a big wad to get a hold of and would plug the beater or worse slug the cyl. Also put new slip clutchs on the beater if they have been slipped much because if they get just a little bit worn they won't hold. And I have seen the cyl bars get worn down enough that they won't pull the beans away from the beater fast enough and that will cause it to plug.

 

[acre_eater]

I've forgot much of what I thought I knew about M's and l's but you should be able to run better than 3mph.The spike should do real well in beans. Check the pitch of the fingers on yur feeder beater you may need to make them grab the beans more aggressivly. also make sure that the risers on the walkers are still their and are standing up.Also are the spikes in good condition on the stone doorIJit seems to me that you could put moore in the door or in the grate if you needed to.We rented an F2 with a spike in it and it handeled 15 feet good. Check out some of the post about putting a hose on the cutter bar it will be time and money well spent.Should make you feed alot better. Tim

 

[AlanE]

Two years ago put new spikes all the way though it.Plus new raddle chains,clean grain,and tailings chains plus paddles.I did that to try and help it some.The machine has about 2000 hrs. engine time.

 

[mo]

grind the ends of the auger and beater fingers square. They feed better that way. grind the header auger flighting so that the edge is flat and the leading edge of the flighting is slightly higher than the trailing edge. do this at least annually and it will feed better. Don't use Bondo ect on the places which are wearing through. it is cheapest to fix it right. check transition bar from header to thresher. the slightest snag can be a nag. enough . good luck

 

[johnboy]

AlanE we have had ls,l2s and a l3 and they are pretty close to a M. The l3 had a problem choking the feeder beater (drove us crazy especially the operator) and we found it was that the cut-off strip be-hind the header auger was bent a little.We replaced that and made it adjustable and it changed it's bad habits overnight.Also where the rear of the combine is driven off the fan on the right-hand side that belt is tensioned by a idler pulling the belt out off the pullies. If you add around one inch to the idler length ( i think it's been a few years.) and then turn the spring around and drill a small hole for the tensioner bolt to go through you will find a great differance because that belt won't slip like it used to for now as it tightens more of the pullies area gets used and it really made a cappacity increase in our machines.It was a coman mod. around here althougth i have never heard anyone on the net here talk about it. john

 

[mo]

changing that tightener from inside to out side helps but is hard on the belt because it flexes the 'WRONG' way. to improve belt life put a tightener on the other side of the belt also. this new tightener or idler can be stationery once you find the right spot which evens out the "inside" crimp on the belt. try using a Snuggulator brand idler. they have real bearings in them

 

[Tom_Russell]

Poor feeding on the head usually causes feeder beater problems. In addition to what others have suggested, make sure your head has adapters for an M. If your head was originally set up for an l, there are kits that you have to install to extend auger flighting and maybe one or two others that I cant remember off the top of my head. Come to think about it, the bottom of my head isnt much better. Tom in MN

 

[marshall]

Do you grind the flighting free-hand with a standard disc grinder or do you have some kind of jig or fixture for the jobIJIJIJIJ

 

[T__langan]

Tom has it right - the first thing I thought of when i read about your feeder beater problems is uneven head feeding. When that crop gets off to an uneven start at the head, the whole combine will perform poorly. Do what someone else here suggested, scroll down through and read some posts on the hose mod. There is also a description and a pic over on the left under "Tips" and then "Gleaner Upgrades". Checking the flighting edges and feeder beater fingers are good ideas too. Your problems are up front somewhere..... Good luck- Tom langan

 

[mo]

free hand is fine. use a large diameter disk to avoid gouging . take off the drive belt or chain and have the MIl slowly rotate the auger. keep all valuable appendages out of the syckle. NO not that, I mean the power cord. I mean........... oh I quite, the hole just gets deeper.