Combines Whole Wheat FlourIJIJ

[Old_Pokey]

Please forgive this question, but is this gap you are talking about, maybe 2-2 1_2"IJ The front concave should have a tapered cone looking exrension on it to mate rite up to the transition cone.

 

[John_W]

Our host Marvin Gordon has the answer for you. Gordon Bars. Click on "attachments" at the left. The aggressive specialty rotor needs help in hard threshing wheat. It is good for tough green stuff but not so great in some other situations.

 

[dumfarmer]

No, we do have the proper front concave in place with the tapered front section. Because we have the concaves tightened up so high, there is still a 3_4 to 1 inch gap between the concave and the cone opening.

 

[Old_Pokey]

Ok, if I misunderstand the statement about disrupter bars on the rotor, please forgive me. I'm going to assume you are talking about spike rotor bars. You dont need them in low moisture wheat, but if you only have a few acres of wheat, its ok, we'll make them work. Something I have learned on this board is that the people that run without cover plates on their concaves are usually running high moisture wheat or wheat with green and tough stems. I run soft white wheat at 10 to 12%, with dry stems and leaves. I have to use cover plates to keep the material in the threshing unit long enough to completely thresh. If I dont use cover plates, the wheat is broke up enough to fall through the concaves, but not threshed enough to be able to seperate or clean. To eliminate white caps in the tank and several other unacceptable characteristics, I use cover plates on the whole front concave and half the second concave. Then I run the rotor at about 800 to 850rpm with a specialty rotor. The concaves should be open about an inch or more to start with. I dont know how much straw you have to work with, but I try to cut the wheat head plus about 4 to 6" of straw to start with. I like to have enough straw to help rub the grain out instead of beating it out. Sometimes a little more straw is needed and I will cut even lower. If you cant get that much straw, then you have to fool the combine into thinking it has enough. Put another cover plate on the second concave. Now, I prefer to run the machine at a certain material load, and to achieve this I will pull the rotor down about 50 to 70 rpm from empty speed and just run the combine with the rotor tach. It works for me, but you have to do what you have to do. Most will say to run it as hard as you can, but in low moisture grain, horsepower is less of an issue than in high moisture grain with green stems and leaves. 50-70rpm is just my guideline. You should not have any flour in your tank, and you should be able to get rid of the white caps. Also there should be very little cracked. I think what is happening is the grain is falling through the concaves too soon and you are trying to compensate with higher rotor speed and too tight of concave setting. Try the cover plate idea and slow the rotor down, and open the concaves a little, then let us know how it goes please.

 

[dumfarmer]

The bars I refer to are attached to the concave bars and act as a retarder to the material coming into the first concave. There are only enough to cover the first half of the front concave making them work similar to a cover plate. We also have just the normal specialty rotor rub bars from CaseIH - new. This is hard red wheat, and dry, 11 - 14 % and swathed, usually lots of straw. Is the specialty rotor the wrong thing for this cropIJ Are gordon's rub bars what we will need for next yearIJ

 

[Old_Pokey]

Its the right rotor. About the gordon bars though, you'll have to post that question to the people that run them. I just run plain ol rasp bars on my specialty rotor. Still, you should have no problem getting a clean sample and there should be no flour. You have a great machine, its just going to take a few adjustments to make you a happy owner.