Combines wobbly auger solution

Creative thinking, I am over pertective of my f3. auger does not open unless I haved slowed down to a crawl. I have seen several machines that have damage to the collar from the fatigue you are talking about. I may be wrong but the design does not look as if it is made to flex that much. On the other hand I think Gleaner has the best unloading system.

I agree it runs too wobbly out.......I always fold back, but seems likes lots of wear......especially with plots. Have you ever folded back with it fullIJ Is this disaster waiting to happen, even if done carefully and slowIJ I would rather have another design for auger where I could leave out most of the time. Currently F3 in shop putting another Black elbow on from wear.

Did once, folded in with a heck of a bang; thought it would not fold back out. Never again. Ben.

I have had an M2, M3, and R62 with power fold augers. I folded them all with the augers full and only one time did I problem folding them back out. The end of the hyd cyl broke once on the M2. Every other time the auger has swung out and started. Maybe I'm just lucky.

I have folded the auger back full all the time on my R series gleaner. Its how i get wagons full faster at one end of the field when I have to dump on both ends. I empty out just enough so that my tank will be completely full when I get to the wagons parked on the end by the road. Ive done it for years with no problems to speak of and it always folds back out okay.

Could you send some pictures of your cable assemblyIJ I was thinking of doing something similar if I ever added an extension. By the way, with my F2 I pull the leaver to start the hydraulics then rev the motor. After it reaches the downhill side, I slow the motor back down and it rests nice and gentle. We just finished rebuilding the bottom of the bin all the way out to the auger tip. I don't want to have to do that again so I try to be gentle.

On our R62's when unloading if we see a terrace or gully at times, we will even fold up the augers way before that way something won't happen. Heard of a few stories going over or even hitting bumps that the auger starts to sag, and eventually could lead to trouble. Graincarts are plenty high anyway so we atleast shut off if a bad situation comes up. Jacob

In the mid 1980's, we extended our N7's auger by about 3 feet. We also used a cable, attached to a collar, located about 3_4's of the way out along the tube. The other end was fastened to reinforced area near the top rear of the grain tank. The collar was a clamp type which was adjustable to allow the cable to be made tight when the auger was fully out but still slightly slack when retracted. We never had any problems with the fold system or the grain tank metal work in the 10 years we used the cable support. However, the extended auger would not lift if retracted full of grain. Cheers.

I would like to extend the auger on my F3.I'm having problems filling trailers that are to high, the only way to get over the trailer is to not fold the auger all the way out. This has to be hard on the universal joint. How did you join the extention tube, and augerIJ Could a person use parts from a used augerIJ Your cable system is an excellent idea guys, and would be a must after extending!!! Thanks Rick

There was a kit available for the M2 to put in the roll out cylinder to stop roll out at a higher point similar to what you describe. A single universal as in the unloading auger will handle up to 45* flex. The problem is the shaft changes speed every 90* of rotation, thereby inducing rotational shock loads to the drive. Have you ever looked inside the outboard auger tubeIJ That's why there are rubber snubbers to absorb the pulses. On our M2 I attached angle iron to the top corners of the hopper (hinged) then in an "A" to the auger. I made an attachment point on the craddle collar. Roll it out in the morning, back in at night. Just keep in mind it's a few feet wider than the header on the left side. When we trade for an R50 I made a brace for this one too. Main diference being the need for internal reinforcement in the hopper. Don't ever forget you're wider on the left.