tbran
Guest
Hmm, actually when the concave is drawn down to "0" the upper concave should exactly match the upper grate to the cylinder bars. Due to machine tolerences there will always be a high bar. In other words there are 7 cross bars best I can remember on the upper grate. On a new machine each bar should contact at same point. As a machine wears and the bars take a set USUAllY the center or lower part of the upper grate will be a few thousandths wider. IF yours is within say a sixteenth of an inch or so you are OK, if you are a 1_4" or more you have a warpage or loose or bent pivot bolt or block. When the concave is set to zero best you and the front bar is set to .43 or 7_16ths and then mowe out to a setting of 8 on the gauge, it should give you a setting of .5 on the top grate bar, .7 on the lower bar of the upper grate, and .85 on the first cross bar on the lower grate at the front and .99 or 1" at the wear strip bolted to the stone door. Hope this helps.