Combines 1460

1460 IS A 6-30", 20 FT. MACHINE. MAKE SURE THE GRATES ON THE BACK HAlF OF THE ROTOR ARE STIll PRETTY SQUARE ON THE BACK SIDE. AlSO IF YOU CAN lOOK IN THE FRONT OF THE ROTOR MAKE SURE THE CONE ISN'T WORN NEXT TO THE SEEMS. IF YOU HAVE A DECENT DEERE CORN HEAD, I WOUlD SUGGEST KEEPING IT.

Mike, If you could give us some more info, when might be able to help you. Is it making a whining sound in the hydroIJ Does the propulsion lever feel normalIJ Did it just stop or did it get weak feeling firstIJ I would first check the hydraulic oil level. Then I would try the gear transmission in all three gears. If the hydro is weak, it will pull better in first gear. If the hydro is whining, it is either starved for oil, or it is gone bad. Usually when a hydro goes out, it gets weaker and slower until it finally stops. It could be cable linkage going from the lever to the hydrostat pump. It could also be one of the axle couplings stripped out. There are two on each pulling axle, one at the tranny and the other at the final drive. If one of those has stripped out, neither wheel will turn. Same goes if a final drive has stripped out. That's about all I can think of without knowing the symptoms.

It is probably your hydro not transmission but If the transmission is bad I have one for sale cheap

Check the splined coupling between engine and hydro pump - splines could be on the way out.

I bought a 1460 with about the same hours a couple of years ago. This is what I was told to look for. like any combine- check belts, chains, pulleys, and sprokets for wear. Check concaves, rasp bars, grates, augers, ect. for wear. Put the rotor in neutral, open the panels on the left side, and open the concave clear up. Spin the rotor by hand several times. You may want to put a mark on it. It shouldn't stop in the same place. If it does it is out of balance. This could be just a missing bolt, or a hole in the rotor, that has been patched, but not balanced. If you put the rotor in high and run it and speed it up to 900-100rpm and it doesn't shake the combine bad it should be ok. Open the panels above the feeder house(1_2" wrench) check the transition ( $900+ new)for bent vanes holes and wear. If it is grooved along the vanes- its wore., elephant ears_wear bars. They can be pretty wore and still work. mine wear bars had wore back , so the leading edge of the ear had wore bad. This is wear I had a missing bolt that had thrown the rotor out of balance. Price varies I'm guessing $10 - 20,000. 20 would have to be cherry. I went from a '84 M3 to '82 1460 with more hours. love the 1460

Also check for rusted spots in bottom of grain tank and around the clean out door at the bottom of the unloading auger. Check the bottom pans beneathe the clean grain and tailings augers for rust holes.

We have two 1460's and the biggest things that need to be looked at before buying one of these combines are the Transition Cone and the Feeder-House floor. When we bought our combines we had to replace both of these, very expensive new but very easy to find used. If it is needed make sure that you find the cone that is thicker some were made very lightly. The best way to fix the floor is to take it to a machine shop.

Thanks for the tips guys. I will keep this in mind as I have not had a rotor machine before.

Should be that solenoid is used in lots of applications with IH and are all the same unit. Weapon

You should remove the battery cables and clean the battery terminals and lugs before you go buy a new battery. Just might solve the problem.