Combines 800 series full fingered auger

[roughstock]

I have done some custom work for guys out of Kansas with Gleaner equipment and, I have suggested the exact same thing to them and not only because of moisture raising and lowering in the hours of the day causing feeding problems but because the head has feeding problems in general. After trying to convince them for days, and them thinking I was nuts, it's nice to see another guy out there thinking on my line. I seriously suggest it even if you have to be the first, just means you'll be the first to succeed in full and not be robbed of machine productivity due to your head.

 

[John_W]

Here is a link to Roetman CIH full fingered conversion page. He may have some good tips for you.

 

[R_O_M]

Sounds like a similar problem to our guys in Western Australia with their lupin crops. Two ideas from W.A. are to cut say, inch deep V notches in the flight every 6 inches or so. In standard going, a piece of plate is bolted over each notch to cover the notch. The West Aussies also developed lupin Breakers, 8 to10 inch long sections of flighting with the outer edge cut into about 3_4 to 1 inch deep V notches. A couple of these were bolted on every turn of the flight. The notches break up the brittle bushy lupin stems and they feed in under the flight. We use them in the centre section of the auger in some crops when we have feeding problems into the front elevator. They pretty aggressive and grab the crop and push it through. The above is a suggestion only. No idea if it will work in your conditions. Cheers!

 

[Dr__Pepper]

Try looking at this web site. (www.till-harvest.com) This company modifies the reel to make it feed better. You will notice he used to work for a Gleaner dealer.

 

[Rolf]

QuestionIJ Does that crop stop just before the feather sheet hold downIJ I was wondering if you really need to do what you are suggesting!! is it something like that crop hanging on that steel strip that connects that SS feather sheet catching crop and holding it up then letting it go in slug's!!!! On our Flex 500 we had the same trouble with barley just hanging up on that strip so MOM (my old man!!) got to it with a bender and we ended up putting a small section of bends in so as to make a smooth transition from the feather sheet to the table auger. (you could try a bit of thousand MPH tape along the strip to see if that will help for a temporary fix!!!) I think if you looked at the Mod site and found were we have put a flywheel on you might see were we have adjusted the feather sheets to make a smooth transition. Also just check to see if you table auger is at the right speed as we found ours to be 20 to 30 % slower that what the book indicated, as we were trying to do 5 or so MPH but the front couldn't handle any more that 4.3 MPH and it was that critical as the table auger was only bring that crop material to the feeder house at around 4 MPH!!! (30 inch pitch at 180 RPM is around 5.5 MPH feeding to the center of the front!!!) moving forward faster that it feeding to the feeder house!!!!!! Another one is to check that your front AHHC is set up nice and accurate as this will help with feeding as well. Rolf

 

[Rolf]

Sorry link went south (well south of me!!!!!) try this one!! Rolf

 

[MW]

We looked at the hold down strip and don't believe it has anything to do with our problem. The problem is before the strip. Beans stand up in front of the auger batting between the reel and flighting. The bottoms of the bean stems do not make it in far enough for the hold down strip to get in the way. Our biggest trouble is with taller beans, we have hardly any trouble with shorter beans (which would probably have more of a tendency to hang up on the hold down strip). Anyway, we are already about half way done with the conversion. Its really not that hard to do. It just requires a lot of thinking ahead. We have seen the benefits of a full fingered auger for ourselves while working in the same field as a newer Deere. The difference in capacity was clearly not in the combines but in the heads. Feeding is everything in soybeans. If you can just get the head to feed smoothly then the rest of the machine will be able to do a much better job and will have alot more capacity.

 

[Tom_Russell]

Did you try reel sweepsIJ

 

[dairyman]

Stupid question: Why not buy a MacDon draper headIJ I've heard rave reviews of using these in beans. Are there downsides alsoIJ

 

[NDDan]

I wish you the best with your project for it surely can't hurt if the other color machines benifit. I just havn't seen any trouble at all with 700 or 800 heads as long as the straw is tall enough to reach auger. I can't imagine how poorly the older heads with 4" would work for you if the newer head with 7" don't work. You really should get the RPM of that head checked like Rolf suggested. If auger was turning fast enough it may not such material under auger but should stay clean enough to stay ready for more material. Have you heard of anyone else having trouble feeding medium to tall beans with a 800IJ You are probably building an ultimate bean head even if you leave the speed of things the way they are. I'm all for whatever it takes to get the capacity needed out of a simple auger head. Good luck