Combines Agco about to lose another customer

[Tom_Russell]

Do you think the cob problem might be weather relatedIJ And how fussy are you about cobs in the binIJ I have cobs in the bin but all loads I hauled last year were graded No 1. Why would I want to do any better if there is no added payment for cleaner cornIJ Anything I can get into the bin to add weight and still grade No 2 or better is fine with me. I went from an l2 to a stock R60 that is a smaller jump than you made. The R60 had more capacity than the l2 even before I Hyperized it. Hyperizing only made a good machine even better. There is a problem getting some dealers to understand how to do little things discussed on this board to make your life easier. I dont know what the answer is but you might have to keep after the guy. Would you be interested in a top quality R60 in trade on your R62IJ Email if you are interested. Tom in MN

 

[PETE]

Sorry to hear about your problems. they sound a lot like the ones I had when I first got my N6. Are you running white cobIJ Soft cob just explodes in a machine with reverse bars. When I got into a good hard red cob variety a lot of my cob grinding problems went away. Please give the Guru's in this forum a chance as even a stock machine should do better job than what you are experiencing.I would think your dealer would be willing help you out in doing a lot of the mod's especially with the problems you are having. A few minor modifications make a world of difference. Good luck,

 

[T__langan]

I agree with Pete - the corn hybrid has an awful lot to do with cob breakup we have found. We avoid any hybid we have had trouble with in the past. Get rid of ANY reverse bars you have on your rotor. It ain't hard to do - if you can run a socket, you can change cylinder bars. Do like Pete said and ask your dealer to help you with the Hyperizing. If he is truly willing to help you, he should be willing to help with this. As for the head troubles, I would have to blame the dealer for this too - he should have gone over it and checked to make sure everything was field ready. Anyone can overlook a loose nut or bolt, but if you're having a lot of trouble, it wasn't check very well before delivery. The only adjustment we had to make to our 815 the first time we ran it was to the auger - it rubbed in one spot. I believe you will find in the long run that your R62 is a lOT more forgiving in settings than your M3 ever was. You are only experiencing growing pains - we went through one season of frustration when we traded from an M3 to an R40 several years ago. You have to throw everthing you ever learned about how to set a conventional out the window when you go to a rotary. let the folks on this board work with you to find the sweet spots on your machine. Consider yourself fortunate that you have a knowledge base to tap in to - our first year we were on our own. The dealer we bought the 40 from didn't understand them any better than we did and this forum wasn't available back then. My first suggestion, besides getting rid of any reverse bars, is to try a different hybrid once to get into some harder-cobbed variety. Tweak some settings until you are rolling whole and half cobs out the back and then you will see it isn't so much the combine as the corn. Best of luck and let us help you in any way-

 

[John]

My N6 is hyperized and I had both red and white cob corn this year and the white cob broke up and shows up in the bin whereas the red goes right out the back of the machine. I noticed at the elevator the white cob was coming in from everywhere though. It's not the combine it's the corn. like I had problems with the green bean stems this year too, getting lodged behind the cage sweep and jamming the rear feed auger. Again a hybrid problem, bean 8% stems green!

 

[mo_farm]

I have been in 5 different numbers of corn all of them red cob and it doesn't make any difference. This has been an excellent corn growing year around here so I don't think its weather related. It has just about dried off from yesterdays rain so I am about to go try again. Maybe I'll try somthing today that will work.

 

[PETE]

like Tom my first year with my N6 was pure hell, I really regretted getting rid of my F2. Also like Tom says you have to remember you are dealing with a completely different beast. One of the first things I noticed is with a rotor is there is absolutely no corn left on the cob. You'll get it all, now you have learn how to get it clean. First and formost is getting rid of the reverse bars. Second, put a separate control rod on the first 6-8 rows of your chaffer and run those rows open about 3_4", the center and back 1_2-5_8". I found out the first year I had the middle of my chaffer open too far and was returning a lot of cob which looke like I was grinding the cob more than I actually was. Third, push you machine harder than you would have ever dreamed of pushing your M3. Rotors a designed for capacity, and the more you use that capacity the better they run.

 

[Hyper_Harvest_II]

Mofarm, A stocker should be able to be adjusted to do a satisfactory job without spending a lot of money.First,what year is this machineIJNeed to know if it has high wide wire concave in it.Check your wire spacing center to center.If it is around 1",then remove every other wire from both sections of concave.Once you have the grain threshed you need to be able to seperate it.Concave settings are also critical.I usually have the front of the concave set to one mark below(Mid)position toward(Max).Then,open your concave to the No.n8 setting on the outside with the ratchet mech..At this time take a measurement at the front of the concave.You should be real close to 1" all the way across the front.(Check both RH and lH sides and make sure that concave is level.)Now,check measurement at rear of concave,this should be set to also acheive a 1" measurement from top of cylinder bar tooth to concave.Chances are you will find the rear of cocave set closer and you will have to lower it by lengthening yokes.Concave should be set somewhere around the n10-12 setting with the above adjustments made.One last thing related to cylinder bars.Do you have wide space cylinder barsIJ(3_4" center to center on each tooth.)This is a must to stop cob break up.

 

[Silver_Bullet]

I'm running a stock R62 in 180 bu. corn today with an 8-30" head at 4 to 4 1_2 mph. losing practically nothing over the shoe. Cylinder rpm at 300 or a little less. Cylinder set at 12 (3_4"),which is important...too wide and the cobs seem to go end over end and break worse. Variety of corn is ultimately the biggest factor in cob breakage. I get some cobs in the bin on one variety and have a perfectly clean sample in another variety in the same field, same day, same settings. Some varieties wil just break worse than others. Run the chaffer at about 1_2-5_8" wide then close the sieve just enough to clean. Also run the air at 5 1_2 -6. In SOME varieties, you may still have a few cobs but I never get docked at the elevator.

 

[mo_farm]

This combine is a 92 and had almost 1000 hrs on the seperator. The bars are narrow spaced and put in new last year with 2 reverse bars.

 

[Deadeye]

First make sure your helical bars are not wore out. You may not need to make any hard changes. The only change I made on a R50 was to add 2 helical bars over the top of the cage, they are listed in the parts book as the ediable bean kit. They help move materials through the cage at cyl.speeds under 300 RPM (corn). I used part of the bars that I replaced in the rest of the cage over the last 2 years. Some had good ends that I could cut off. It made a lot of difference, cobs went to almost none and in oats and soybeans, capacity took a big jump. They can be put in in about a 1_2 hour with 2 people (its not hard just a long reach). I have not found that I need to make the other changes yet I run at 5 to 5.5 MPH in 150bu corn (630 head) and in the land of rocks that is fast enough. The only time I have to go faster is if there is some off color machinery around, and it will do it If I need more speed.