cole
Guest
many times the failures on rh side are caused from frozen torque sensing cams for cylinder speed. dis-assemble, and be sure surfaces are smooth and free.
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Combines broken main shaft
mo
Guest
Don't know about l's but on M's if the tightener to the cylinder drive is put on the out side of the belt you get the honor of buying a new shaft and belt! On M's right side remove unloading auger drive pulley----it is left hand thread--may have to make a impact socket out of heavy walled square tub and use big daddy --the 1" drive rattle gun. Suspend drive pulley in position with chain hoist. This is a good time to service that drive. If the drive goes closed it can be spread with a two bars a series of ever wider blocks and the mil. On tne left side start stripping parts and lAY THEM OUT ON A TABlR EXACTlY as they came off. There is one piece that uses two pusher bolts. a simple gear puller does the rest. New bearings all around and antisieze going back. lol. Tell something about the spelt business.
buckeyegleaner
Guest
small note if you dont have a wrench for the left handed pulley (unloader) we take a crowbar (3')through the spoke hole and pry against the bolt head of the clutch magnet works well not all heads line up usually only need 1 and it will unscrew right off has been done several times so dont think im totally nuts
mo
Guest
Also on an M the cyl drive belt tightener is a misnomer. It is used to adjust the belt so that when the cylinder speed is changed the torque sensing drive can move within it's min_max limits. With cyl speed at max set adjustment_tightener pulley so torque sensing drive shieves do not touch in center. The book has a spec.