Combines Getting an even spread

[bucko]

Hi JBull, I have the same machine (I may have tried to email you re the auger extension). I have the same dilemma. My thoughts are, that while a better spreader would help with notill, it is the straw that is left standing that becomes the problem for next sowing, rather than the straw that is discharged from the back of the machine. My experiments have shown me that the straw that is laid over by the harvester front wheels, is the straw that causes the bank up of straw in a tyned seeding machine. (Of course, if your soil type allows successful use of a disc seeder, you do not have to worry at all.) If the straw breaks down sufficiently before the next sowing, it causes much less problems. So, I am going to try harvesting the wheat as low to the ground as possible, about 8 inches or a touch less, so that the standing stubble is short, the cut stubble is knocked around a bit in the machine and left on the ground where it will break down faster because of the knocking around, and then let the sheep have a go and further break down the cut stubble and perhaps knock down some of the standing stubble too. The knocked down stubble seems to break down in 3 to 4 months sufficient for the next sowing if a few showers come your way. Re the spreader, the former owner of my machine tried to modify the spreader by installing a large steel disc on the underside of the existing spreader, which may have worked OK, but caused very bad damage to the bearing housing structure for the spreader. This year I have mowed a small area of the stubble using an old sickle mower to only 2 inches high so that all the stubble was on the ground for the sheep to further knock about. I am trying what I can to a) retain ground moisture with the laid over stubble and b)allow direct tyne drilling without burning the paddock and c) improve my soils.

 

[NDDan]

You might check with salvage yards to see if you can locate a machine that had dual spreader package installed.

 

[Rig]

I know exactly what you are talking about because I have the same machine except with a 24 foot head. I generally only have trouble with straw spread when the conditions get a little damp and the straw comes through unbroken and long. In these conditions the spreader wants to throw everything to the right. I have often removed 2 opposite blades on the spreader so at least some of the straw just drops. I don't see much difference in spread, by adjusting the angle of the blades. I don't know how to get it to throw anything to the left. I guess that is why the later dual spreaders have the two spinners going in opposite directions. I considered a dual spreader but I was worried about having to increase the length and lessen the angle of the straw chute to install the dual spreader. I have trouble bunching sometimes in short beans and the like and also bridging in extreme conditions the way it is. I bought a second spreader for an N, used, and I was going to experiment placing it above the present spreader and have it turn opposite to throw left. I was going to drive it with a hydraulic pump and motor that I have but have lacked motivation in actually doing it. There is no time to experiment when wheat is ripe. I have also wondered about moving present spreader back or change its angle. I think most of the trouble is that most of the straw is falling to far back on the spreader. Do you have the chaff spreader (fins) on the top of ther shoe. They help a little with the chaff. Huge problem with no-till especially planting in the spring. I have waited for dry straw conditions with fields that I know will be no-tilled because of this reason.

 

[NDDan]

Had a guy tell me it is very easy to spread to the left. He said he made adjustable panel at back of discharge to direct straw further forward on spreader. Kind of doing just as you suggest by moving spreader back. Alot of these machines got dual spreaders and had choppers in our area.

 

[JBull]

I do not have the chaff spreader fins on top of the shoe. A neighbor has them on his '85 N7 so I thought that was an update for the '85 models. I have thought of making some or finding a salvage R60 where that area was adjustable. Thanks for the ideas, this is about the only part of the machine we don't like. John

 

[Rig]

I wonder if it would be possible to make a half baffle. Keeping half of the straw where it is now and directing half of it to the front of the spreader to be spread to the left.

 

[canuck]

Been running our N6's with 30ft headers in mainly wheat and barley. One with stock spreader, one with dual spreader, and one with a Storm King chopper. None would ever spread the width of 27 ft, let alone 30. Just one of those "things" about the combines. The chopper does the best job by far, but requires too much HP, and a very elaborate set up to drive it. Hardly worth it. We have been no-tilling for several years and have been heavy harrowing behind the combines to manage the straw as we have found this our only option for us. The harrows are one of our most valuable pieces of equip. Just some thoughts. canuck

 

[bucko]

Check the direction of rotation of the spreader. It is easy to change it by changing the way the belt drive is fitted. The rotation on my machine is anti-clockwise when looking from above. Would appreciate knowing what you find.

 

[Rig]

Counter clock wise rotation is what mine has always done. If I changed rotation I still would have problem with straw going only one direction. I like the adjustable baffle idea. I can't believe I didn't think of it before. Maybe even an baffle on an angle. Anything to bust up the pattern of straw striking the spreader in one place and going in one direction.

 

[posum]

just be careful it does not bridge over and stop up.