Tom
Guest
Rolf, I have the same problem in soys and I cant correct it. lets hope the experts have a solution. By the way, how many km is 50 milesIJ This archaic measurement system we have in the US is for the birds. Tom Russell
Combines HElP 500 flex front s Soyabean experts
Rolf
Guest
These lentils are driving me nut's at the moment but they are our highest paying crop this year!!!!!
Wayne
Guest
Rolf: Try adjusting the cutter bar tilt on the header so that the rear of the shoes contact the ground slightly before the front. This usually eliminates bulldozing. You still have to keep other ajustments in check but we have found that this is far more important than spring pressure. Wayne
T__langan
Guest
Below is a handy site for doing all sorts of cypherin'. It'll tell ya everything you want to know except how to keep a 500 from bulldozing - kind of like this response!!
Tom
Guest
We like the poly skid attachment for they make it much less fussy for the ground pressure ect. 30' 71369099, 25' 71369098, 22' 71369097, 20' 71369096, 18' 71369095, 16' 71369094, 15' 71369093. Use just enough ground pressure to keep it on the ground. Hopefully the moist soil will help you out for now. The numbers above are for the 500 and 800 head. We have made poly skids for rigid heads also for when a guy has to run on the ground. Good luck. Tom
tbran
Guest
I just typed out one of the most intelligent replies known to man 
-) and my partners son in law just slipped a disc in the computer and wiped out, for all time, the solutions to all header problems. Oh well, the emotions right now lead to criminal activity.... so I will retype on a less grandeur scale a recap. Geez... first a MIl and now a partners SIl... anyway...First, do you have polyskidsIJSecond, the spring tention can be set to 42MM. (I think book sez 43 or 44 but with a little wear 42 will not bind) Third, if you have the tilt feature on your combine, tilt the throat back then set the gaurds back down to a neg. angle to keep the cutting action at higher speeds clean. Fourth, make sure all the tilt adjustres on the back are as close to the same as posssible; this makes flexing easier. Fifth, check the bolts and arms on the down stops to make sure they are not worn and causing an overcenter (overcentre) lockout that takes a tremendous upforce to break it over centre into the float position. Sixth, set the Auto height control switch to have the dead zone in the lightest float range of the header. This is usually 1" after the header contacts the ground.Seventh, a rock gaurd such as 'Johnsons' or the suction tube trick bolted to rear of gaurds is super in preventing dirt from entering the header. Has not caused any problem in feeding - actually improved it for me. Finally, a little ditty we used with success on the old 300 headers was to double the feather sheets. This added upforce did the trick in mud in a couple of problem areas. Does cause extra wear prior to stainless sheets though. Might be worth a try if all else fails. (All early 500 headers need the update to keep 'pop outs' from occuring) Finally n2, work with the accumulator pressure_handle position(barely open) and up the rate of raise. Keep us informed as to progress as we are all still learning. Now, where did that young SIl get off to..............He is going to have a lentil problem when I find him....
-) and my partners son in law just slipped a disc in the computer and wiped out, for all time, the solutions to all header problems. Oh well, the emotions right now lead to criminal activity.... so I will retype on a less grandeur scale a recap. Geez... first a MIl and now a partners SIl... anyway...First, do you have polyskidsIJSecond, the spring tention can be set to 42MM. (I think book sez 43 or 44 but with a little wear 42 will not bind) Third, if you have the tilt feature on your combine, tilt the throat back then set the gaurds back down to a neg. angle to keep the cutting action at higher speeds clean. Fourth, make sure all the tilt adjustres on the back are as close to the same as posssible; this makes flexing easier. Fifth, check the bolts and arms on the down stops to make sure they are not worn and causing an overcenter (overcentre) lockout that takes a tremendous upforce to break it over centre into the float position. Sixth, set the Auto height control switch to have the dead zone in the lightest float range of the header. This is usually 1" after the header contacts the ground.Seventh, a rock gaurd such as 'Johnsons' or the suction tube trick bolted to rear of gaurds is super in preventing dirt from entering the header. Has not caused any problem in feeding - actually improved it for me. Finally, a little ditty we used with success on the old 300 headers was to double the feather sheets. This added upforce did the trick in mud in a couple of problem areas. Does cause extra wear prior to stainless sheets though. Might be worth a try if all else fails. (All early 500 headers need the update to keep 'pop outs' from occuring) Finally n2, work with the accumulator pressure_handle position(barely open) and up the rate of raise. Keep us informed as to progress as we are all still learning. Now, where did that young SIl get off to..............He is going to have a lentil problem when I find him....Rolf
Guest
You little beauty!!!!
Tom
Guest
Hares one more thing to check. Make sure those little stand things on the bottom of your dividers arent pushing leaves and trash. I lowered my dividers this year because some beans were lodged and that may have caused my problem. The stand thing I am referring to is a bracket about half way back on the bottom of the divider point. It makes a dandy stand when the divider is off the head. My bean head is on a trailer so I cant check out this theory to see if there is any validity to it, but if this solves your problem, I will send my usual bill. Tom Russell
Rolf
Guest
Thanks Tom and Everyone else!
Tom
Guest
Rolf, I would like to see what you are doing. Thanks in advance. Tom Russell