Combines Hydro couplerIJ

[rod]

I changed mine at 1500 hrs on 97 2188. Did it before it stripped. Hydratec Hydraulics in Regina, Sk did it for me. New pump shaft and coupler. His coupler is stronger and cheaper than Case's. You are lucky to have that many hours without it breaking. 2000 seems to be the magic number from what I have seen. If you go back through this site you will find many threads on the subject. Good luck.

 

[canuck]

Its not just the 80 series either. Buddy had his 1440 done last year. Can be quite expensive

 

[Unit_2]

Starting in 03, I think it was, they put a grease zerk in the hub so you can grease it. I sure hope that solves the problem. I have not had to change mine yet.

 

[david]

I have a 2144 with 3000 hrs and it has had it's 2nd shaft and coupler installed. The first time it stripped just after I got it off the road and into the field. The second time it was replaced at 2300 hrs and the grease zerk was installed. They should be greased at least once a week and maybe every other day. Grease is a lot cheeper than the replacement work.

 

[Greedy_Guts]

c.k. We changed ours a few weeks ago on our 1680, it has done 2300 hrs. I was thinking of doing it anyway but we had to take the pto. off so I thought it would be a good time to do it. The biggest job is taking the guards off. There is a bearing to pull off at the rear of the hydro but other wise it isn't too bad a job. Just keep it very clean and be very carefull putting the front seal back in, (I wasn't carefull enough first time) I got the factory manual from a dealer for the hydro. Don't forget if those splines go your combine it stuck and it is easier to do it in winter than when your cutting. Also any play will get worse!! E-mail me for any info as it is still fresh in my mind. I got alot of help from guys on here and am glad to help someone else.

 

[c_k]

Thanks for all the help guys. I will go ahead and replace it. I didnt want to fix something that was unecessary. Nothing worse than down time on a nice sunny day with rain in the forecast. I will add that this is my third season with the 2188 and I have been very satisfied. This is my first axial flow. Very little downtime putting roughly 400 hrs per year on. Also installed stewart steel axcellar and it made things smoother. Very rarely do I ever hear the thumping noise in tough conditions. I have to believe this extends rotor belt life to some degree. Made it through this season on the same belt. I grow wheat, barley, peas and sunflowers and sometimes corn and coanola. Again thanks to all on here that offer great advice.

 

[jeff]

I found a combine salvage yard in Iowa that sold the new coupler ( complete with grease zerk ) for $35 dollars. I had to get the bolt on pulley from caseih, tho. Still save a lot of money and fit perfectly. I have been greasing the zerk every 50 hrs of engine time. Was not that big a job to do myself.

 

[Unit_2]

Brodale, that zerk is hard to see and even harder to get to. There is about a one inch hole in that PTO housing that you have to line the zerk up with to grease it. Every time I've greased mine I've had to turn the hub with a pry bar because I can never get the engine to stop at the right spot to line the zerk up with the one inch hole.

 

[david]

on the 2144 I put a socket on the alternater and use that to turn the engine. I took the time to line up a mark on the crankshaft pulley so I know when the grease zerk is turned where i can grease it. Having done that makes it an easy find every time. good luck

 

[Farmer_Ed]

I have a 1660 (1989) and have never touched the hyrdo coupler. It has about 2900 hrs on it. Are you talking the ones that drive the final drives from the hydro transmission, or the one coming off the pto running the hydro at the left rear upper side by the engineIJ What is the best way to check itIJ Thanks for any info. in advance.