Combines impeller blades

[silver]

impeller blades, turn around you will be surprised the difference it makes, scott

 

[Il_farmer]

I ran a weld on the impeller edge and then took a hand grinder and put a sharp edge back on the them. Seems to have worked. Get a new one to look at first and see how it should look but that worked for me once. I welded while still attached to the rotar.

 

[robmgrig]

I replaced them this winter and i only had a little bit of wheat this spring, but they performed flawlessly in wheat with no rumble at all. They fed a lot better than my wore out ones. I just started on corn. I shipped my old ones up there and he shipped me 3 ears and wear strips that he had already reworked

 

[still_galvanized]

I also have trouble with green milo. No special set up with bars execpt we took paddle bars off discharge end and replaced them with original cyl. bars this spring. I plan to put the transition kit in next spring. you know the short channel helical across the corner of intake. looks like a good plan to me.we had to cut the end of bars a little to replace the paddles.take care.

 

[hunter]

I have put 4 new paddles on the rotor that have 4 inches of rasp on them. I also removed every other wire on the sep. concave looks like the holes are to big but their are guys that say it will be ok and not overload the shoe. Put in the transition kit too. I was told you could put it in from the front, big joke. I had to heat up around bolts, must of been locktited in. I am exstending the channel bars into descharge too and planning on putting in some rasp bars on the sep. concave. I have taken out the reverser bars and put on the backer from the discharge paddle. If there is anything else I need to do, I hope someone will tell me before I put the rotor back in. I am also looking for a wheel balancer they used to put on semi trucks before they went to a toobless tires, the one with the steel balls in a round toob that bolts onto the out side of a wheel. Plan on putting 1 or 2 on the rotor to try to keep it balanced. Sory I got long winded. Any other ideas are welcomed!

 

[Bob_l]

I've done the hypers on my 62s, all except f2 bars in belly of seperator grate which I ain't figured out how to bolt in. I get a lot of rotor loss in green stem soybeans which I attribute to the stems plugging up holes where the wires once were, esp in the seperator side- bottom of cage. Once this material builds up only way to clear is to dig it out.Dry stem soys you couldn't ask for a better job. Running the loewen discharge bars.....4 with paddles, 4 without.

 

[turkey]

i also had trouble with the holes from where the wires were removed plugging in wheat and beans. purchased the plastic plugs from agco and no more plugging and digging. plugs work great and are easy to install.

 

[Bob_l]

Now for the important question, you got a partn for the plugsIJ Plastic plugs seemed to be the answer just did't know where to get them. Thanks!

 

[hunter]

No number but our agco dealer had them on hand. Wanted $98.00 for them, I am going to try 1_4" carrage bolts at $2.00 a pound I figure $10. bucks should do it, or maybe I will have trouble.

 

[R_O_M]

After pulling every second rod in our R62's concave, we filled the holes with 5_16 round headed bolts. The threads extended about 1_2 way across the gap to the next bar which allows grain to get through but keeps most trash in. We have used the plastic plugs in the seperator concave. Quite a few fell out. Straw built up in the hole and plugged that section. When we put the cage material sheet over the seperator concave we removed all rods and used a piece of 1" x 1_8 flat and one bolt in each section to cover the rod holes in each section. No further problems and it's cheap! Cheers!