Combines JD 4400 combine gas tank strainer assembly

[The_Red]

Thanks for the tip on the 409. Since I posted the above, I have the strainer pretty clean now. I soaked it in gas for 24 hours then took drill bits and got almost all the goo out. The strainer was packed full. I have it back in gas and will let it soak for a couple of days, cleaning it more each day. I'll run out to the combine this afternoon and run another 5 gallons of gas through the tank and probably pull the elec. fuel pump and bring it home. I can bench test it with my battery charger and see if it will work.

 

[The_Red]

Thanks. I thought the hy-guard would be fine. I know my neighbors use that on the 6620.

 

[rotor_man]

The battery tester should work fine for a dry test. If you are going to try pumping gasoline be very carefull not to make a spark. Better to do a wet test using diesel fuel.

 

[The_Red]

Well not good news. Brought the pump back and it buzzes but doesn't pump. I'll be giving Deere a call tomorrow and order a pump and gas line for the pump_strainer connection. Strainer assembly is in really good condition now. Blew it out with an air hose and have it back soaking in gas again. Poured another 5 1_2 gallons through the fuel tank and its running crystal clear. After the Colts_Giants game, I will take the battery over and see if the starter motor will crank. I assume negative ground since it has an alternatorIJ The not so brilliant Red pulled the dead battery without paying attention awhile back.

 

[rotor_man]

Negative ground should be right. Dont toss that pump yet!! It may just have gummed up valves, Get a can of carb cleaner and shoot it into the pump inlet with the pump running. If this doesn't work, and the pump is the pop can size unit (sold as dupree, AC etc) You can remove the casting (4 screws) where the fuel lines attach to clean the valves( plastic disc and coil spring) also some pumps have a screen in the pump at the inlet valve.If it is the type of pump with a diphram, and the diaphram is broken, then the pump is junk.

 

[The_Red]

Appreciate all your help. The pump is rectangular assembly so I would assume a diaphram type assembly. I will look at it further though. Will the shift lever have to be in an exact neutral position for the starter to crankIJ It was with the 4420 and 6620 I ran with.

 

[The_Red]

Finally, I score a small victory. Installed a battery and the ignition light came on. Turned the key to start with silence from the starter. I fiddled with the neutral lever. As I pulled it back towards 2nd., I heard a loud click. Solenoid is at least working. I tried several turns on the key with just clicks. So I took my trusty hammer and gave the starter housing several wacks. Climbed back in and the starter began to crank. I turned the engine through about 6 revolutions and the starter got faster. I will have to check the fuse box in the engine compartment. No lights, radio but the horn works. As if you need a horn on a combine. I will call Deere tomorrow and order a fuel line, electric fuel pump and a choke cable assembly.

 

[rotor_man]

Sounds like you have the little transistor pump. I like them, very reliable. The pump I am thinking of is about 2 inches square with a power transistor on one side. (round thing about the size of a nickle and 1_4 inch thick. These pumps have no diaphram to fail and no points like the other kind. It does have valves which may be gummed up( one in the inlet fitting and one in the free floating piston. Put carb cleaner in the inlet pipe and blow compressed air in the inlet fitting, might clear them. Hope I am not wasting your time, I am a bit of a tightwad and when not under harvest pressure I will waste a lot of time trying to save a $ on a part.

 

[The_Red]

You are correct. It is the transistor assembly. I will look it over carefully for being plugged but I think it is history. At least the starter is now cranking. I am relieved on that!