Combines looking for stories on A C conversions

I changed a tractor and combine to a freon called Freeze 12. I replaced the tractor 3 years ago and the combine last year. I only removed the old freon, pulled a vacuum and installed the Freeze 12. It seams to work fine. You only put back about 85% so you need to know how much the system holds. I was told it was not required to change any parts, so I did not and have had no issues. It cost about the same a 136A. Seems to work and did not cost much. My thought was if it worked great, if not I was out very little cash.

Tom, I converted my 90 Ford and my father in-laws 89 Ford pickups over to 134A by just bleeding the R12 out installing 6 oz of ester oil and 2.5 cans of 134A. One of the cans had an o-ring conditioner and a leak sealer in it. Both systems were stil tight so I did not feel the need to evacuate them. Both systems are working great with no apparent problems. You need to use ester oil as it is more compatible than PAG oil with the residual R12 oil left in the system. If your system is still tight but just low on R12 I would go this route first. Saves the cost of a dryer and renting a pump. My $.02 worth, Pete Hinrichsen

Converted my tractor 4 yrs ago to 134A. Had hose leak fix that put 8 oz required oil pumped it 2 hrs put 75and of recomened R12 been fine ever since haven't touched it.

Converted my tractor 4 yrs ago to 134A. Had hose leak fix that put 8 oz required oil pumped it 2 hrs put 75and of recomened R12 been fine ever since haven't touched it.

In everything i have got i have have good luck with the freeze 12. Whenever i have a system with r-12 thats gets low i just add freeze 12 on top of it. I have heard people say that you have to evacuate the r-12 but i just put the freeze 12 with it and i havent had in problems and it works just as good. thats my opinion anyway good luck

An important thing to remember is that Freeze 12 is 80% 134a. The remaining 20% is for absorbing and circulating the R-12 mineral oil. Some compressor manufacturer's warranties are voided with the use of something like Freeze 12. It might be better to go to straight 134a. Success in retroing is all about fixing what was wrong in the first place--such as leaks, bad componets, dirty systems inside and out and lack of air flow. A good functioning system with universal oil will work well with any refrigerant. I have used 134a, duracool, envirosafe and combinations of all of them. They all work fine. My opinion is to get away from R12. At a minumum of 10 years old your OEM R12 systems are to prone to failure to be gambling on $150 of gas just bursting to get loose.

Thanks to everyone for your advice. It looks like Freeze 12 and 134A are the popular options on this board. I still have enough R12 to go another year before having to make any changes. If the Mexican field hand comes back to Minnesota next year with cases of R12 for $7_can I will probably continue using that. If he stays in southern states I will be forced to change, as these old A_C systems seem to leek about a can every year.

I have converted six AC systems from R 12 to propane and have had excellent results, 25 cents worth of propane will cool much better than 150 dollars worth of R12! I am not suggesting any one else should try this but it works for me.

G'day Big Boy, Just curious, but wouldn't that be a bit on the volatile side of thingsIJIJIJ If a compressor or something threw a spark you wouldn't have a cab to coolIJIJ Regards, Silver aussie.

There is a big debate in my area about whether propane and blends of hydrocarbons are safe to use. We have been told in the past by companies selling propane blends that Australia was a big user of propane based refrigerants. Is this not trueIJ I am using a propane blend called Duracool in my combine and it is really working well. Some people say it is illegal but it is readily available here.