Combines PTO Oil leak

[todd08]

No, It's not likely a gasket, it will be a seal, because your pilot bearing or shaft is bouncing around (loose).

 

[red]

Just did ours on a 1666. It took the dealer a couple of days. Cost was about $4000.00 when it was done. Ours was leaking about a quart per day. The dealer fixed the hydro shaft also and the seperator pulley was cracked also. That may have been the main cause of the problem.

 

[Greedy_Guts]

Red, I have had a good look at ours today and it will be leaking about the same as yours. I am going to have a go at it myself, I have plenty of time. I noticed the play on the hydro drive shaft earlier this year when I changed the belt, and I agree that this will probably have caused the seal to go, I think I will change both when I get it off!

 

[ihman]

We did ours this summer wasn't too bad, about a day to take everything off and a day to put everything back on (good day for us luck was with us). We took the side panels off so we could see what we were doing, we had the dealer replace the seals and shaft and anything he thought might need replacing, I don't wanna have to take it off again for a while.

 

[jeff]

the bushing is shot in the center of your flywheel and the extra wobble has taken out the pto box seal. You can fix it yourself in 2-3 days. make sure to check the splines and also the gearset closely. This is also a good time tocheck and lube the hydro splines.

 

[combine_ken]

I have done this repair also. Change rear engine seal when you are in there they tend to fail. Get one from cummins though, it is a better seal. The easiest way to do this is to move the motor towards the radiator. Remove fan_hub,engine mounts, fuel lines, it will give you enough room to push the engine away and turn it out to work on. I had mine out in 3-4hrs. I hung the engine off my 13" grain auger with a ratchet strap so I could raise and lower it.Worked slick!

 

[Rusty]

I agree with the other posts here in that your oil leak is the PTO input shaft seal leaking. Your pilot bushing may be worn but there is also a good chance that the end of the input shaft is also worn. That means disassembling the PTO and having a machine shop repair the shaft. Removing the PTO unit is the way to go especially if you are planing to do your hydro splines at the same time.Also make sure you check the runnout of the hydro unit before reinstalling.

 

[Greedy_Guts]

Took my pto off today and found only very slight wear on the shaft, the bush had moved out of the flywheel towards the pto about 1_2 an inch and was worn . Would it be a good idea to fix the new bush in with retaining compound. I am hopefully going to get a second hand hydro unit of a breaker, with less wear than mine. What do you mean by the runnout of the hydro unitIJ Is this if I take it to bits. Cheers!!!

 

[Rotor_Man]

Yes,the factory service manual says to use a stud and bearing type retaining compound to retain the bushing. locktite makes a good product. Checking the runout means mounting a magnetic base dial indicator on the pto shaft flange where the hydrostat pump driver bolts on,and allowing the dial indicator pointer to run in the machined hole where the hydrostat pump is plugged into the adapter bell. By rotating the engine and pto shaft while watching the dial indicator reading,you can check if there is excessive misalignment between shaft and hole in the adapter bell. The runout specs and the procedure are in the shop service manual. If this test is not done,and the runout is excessive,then Hydrostat pump shaft and driver spline wear will be rapid and excessive. You must have the new pilot bushing installed on the engine and the pto assy bolted to the engine before attempting to check or correct any misalignment. To correct misalignment you leave the adapter bell to pto case bolts snug enough to hold the bell in position,but loose enough to allow moving the adapter bell position with a hammer. Do not leave the dial indicator pointer in contact with the adapter bell when you tap the bell with a hammer,doing so will damage the dial indicator. When you have the adapter bell aligned as close as possible,you tighten the adapter bell to pto case bolts to the correct torque spec,and are ready to install the hydro pump and driver.

 

[Greedy_Guts]

Thanks Rotor man, this is somthing I hadn't thought of, I think I would have come accross this when putting it together. I have a friend who has a magnetic dial indicator I can use. I wouldn't have thought of using one if you hadn't told me. Its amazing what you learn on this site!!!!!!!!!!!