Combines R50

I bought an 89 R50 last fall with an 18 ft. platform. Combine has about 1800 seperator hours and paid 28000.

I'd want to see the floor of the feeder house and the conveyor floor in the combine. Probably means removing both the feeder house and the rear conveyor chain. At 2100 separator hour, I have just replaced the floor sections under hte rear conveyor - part of it is a structural component of the combine. It was worn thin enough that a stone split it open! If auger flightings, conveyor and elevator chains and rasp and helical bars are not recent, you are in for some serious repair bills. How old is each bearingIJ I've replaced 90% in my machine. Dealer offered me $21,000 for 4WD combine plus 318 flex and 6RN corn head.

Thanks for your input.

I've got a R50. Think in 89 they switched the head pump to the combine. Also the automatic header reel speed is nice. Check the shaft that runs the elevators. It's the shaft that runs through the cleaning fan. Also check the condition of the fan on the Deutz engine.

The 89 1_2 model had the change to the pump. Anything new than the 89 1_2 had the pump on the head. Ryan

pull the rotor out take off a rub bar compare it to a new one and you will soon know.how many hrs and what kinds of cropsIJ just curious. enjoy

Jackshaft hit it very well. You can tell best with a bar side by side with a new one. I always look to see if it is rounded off on the leading edge.

I think the answer could vary quite alot. I would suppose the harder to thresh and smaller the seed the better the bars and concave need to be. If you have been having trouble with knocking out seed causing cylinder loss or dirty bin you will likely need to check out bars and concave. That is providing you have added as many filler bars as you wish to, run as close of concave clearance that you can, and or run cylinder a wide range of speeds. Seems like the more wore bars are the more you need to pack in the crop to get good thresh. Tailings return to cylinder will help eliminate dirty bin with bad bars but will do little to prevent some unthreshed crop from going out with straw. Remember that bars are reversable on Gleaner if caught in time. There is area of bar that will remain unwore alot longer than other area thus you may be able to improve thresh with very little expence and just a little time. Another reason I like our rotaries is the narrow concaves. I think it is much easier to maintain good even thresh no matter how heavy or light you are feeding machine when all material is put into narrow path. Cylinders are very easy to remove but if you want you can switch bars around in machine by folding concave open on thresher side and removeing cage door on seperator side. In our area of extremely hard to thresh spring wheat we would like to keep maximum gap from cylinder bar to concave at 1_8" when concave is zeroed to bars as good as possible. Thats not to say that I haven't seen that gap at 3_8" or more but they surely wouldn't have been doing a very good job when the going was tough. Wouldn't take long to pay for set of bars if they are losing you crop or causing dockage. Take a bar to nearest good dealer that knows your conditions and see what he thinks and then see how well you can true good cylinder bars to possibly worn concave. Much easier to check and zero concave to cylinder bars if every other wire has been pulled from rear half of thresher concave or if you have the high wide wire installed. Allway be sure to use proper hardware and torque. I prefer grade 8 with lockwashers over the hardware with built in lock grooving. Good luck

Dan, I knew that bars in the conventionals could be reversed but I did not know that you could do that with the rotary bars. I will have to look again at my N6 because they did not look reversable to me. Pete Hinrichsen

Your right Pete it's not possible on the P1's. You had to catch the old conventionals before worn past crown if you wanted to keep very true across concave. The P3 bars are leaned into crop so rasp wears from crown to edge of bar. leeding edge of bar runs quite a clearance to concave when crown to edge will rub if up tight. Seems like leeding edge wore fastest on old conventionals and trailing edge on rotarys. Its easier to end up with true cylinder again with P3 bars rotated than the old conventional bars especially when bars got wore a little to far. Thanks for bringing up that point Pete for one must try keep in mind that guys with all kinds of models and years read this stuff. I think thats why some posts get so long for one trys to cover all the bases. Thanks again