Combines r70 deutz head temp light

[johnboy]

Our R60 is doing the same thing only with the oil light and the autoelectrians trying to fix it have paid for their holidays.We eventually tracked it down to a cab wireing conection harness

 

[Tom]

I solved those problems by squeezing the female contacts so they would grip tighter. Use a thin needle nose or tweezers. The connector in the side console was the bad one in my machine. The guy who owned it must have pulled the connectors apart at an angle causing the female contacts to open up. Tom Russell

 

[tbran]

yes, right on target. A good test is to shut off the sep. then engine after the darn light comes on. If the light goes out , it is usually a connection problem at the eng harness. If it stays on turn the key off then back on. If it is out it is usually on the overhead harness. I think there is a connection harness under the console as well. It takes quite a few minutes to cool and usually gets hotter for a minute or two after eng. shut down so one has time to do some trouble shooting. I can't remember but I think it takes 20 ohms of resistance to trigger the light which is on at over 420 degreesIJ check me out of these as I'm shooting from the hip. If the light is on start checking ohms from front to back or vice versa. Since you have a fancy thermo doie there you can put it with the sensor and see if by heating them to 400 .deg. F. (Rolf) you get 20 ohms. Keep in mind a bad injector can cause a cyl to run hot or a pump plunger in pump.. switch to a diff head and see if get diff temp reading.

 

[Dan]

I'm thinking if you see 300 degrees on temp. probe that is hanging in near sender you could well be running 400 in the head where sender is. I would set your intake and exhaust valves for they have a tendency of tighting up and could be causing one cylinder to pull harder than the rest. Also a good idea to check injectors, have pump calibrated, and check timing. Even with all this right there are days that cylinder head temps like to bother and load needs to be reduced a bit. Sometimes it's humidity related and sometimes it's temperature related. When it is one of them days many machines bother. What I think we need to do is give the engine cooler air to work with. The engine breathes very warm air from above engine hood and the air precleaner, filter housing, and air tubing sit in a very hot engine compartment. I'm thinking that air is very hot before it even gets to turbo and then of course it gets warmed up a bunch more. Maybe I'm all wet hear but maybe if we could insulate pipes, ect. we could give the turbos cooler air to work with thus reducing intake valve temp. and head temp. I have thought about tring to cool down engine compartment and or preventing any hot air from going back around threw rotary screen but am drawing a blank. One must be careful not to create an increase potential for fire in whatever they do. Someday I will check intake air temp. to turbo in working conditions and see if I can't get it cooled down fairly easily. Maybe a guy could rid that occasional light problem in the worst of conditions. let us know if you locate problem or have any good brain storms. Good luck. Dan