Combines unloading auger

[nebraska_farmer]

thanks guys!!.i went to put it in the shed and couldn't cuz the auger was out to far, my nephew rapped a rope around it and i ran the lever in the cab, it went all the way to the caddle when he pulled the rope. seal on cyl doesn't seem to be leaking from bent shaft, but i'll pull it off anyway to check it. nephew didn't want to have a new job standing back there with a rope. thought that was kinda narrow minded of him!!

 

[mo]

I suppose so but I understand that the 14 is not that much quicker than the 12. I wonder how much the speed can be increased before wear or grain damage becomes a problem in wheat. I imagine each crop has a different answer. Maybe a third solution of faster flighting would work. I imagine faster flighting would be higher torque. Which brings up a complaint which is that the factory flighting is not very thick or durable. Yes I know cost and competition but it is still flimsy flighting on a heavy weight machine.

 

[NDDan]

I know of a guy that found a wrecked combine with 14" system. He bought the pieces that were different for a 14" system and installed on a 72. I think that is the only way you could justify the change up. The guys we got into 14" systems say there is a noticable increase in output with their crops. Gleaner uses 1_4" thick flighting at all key locations and I believe the bin fill auger is now standard chromed. Main thing I have to complain about on Gleaner flighting is the bottom of bin auger for I believe they should run the flighting closer to bushing support next to universal joint. They could also taper edges of bushing support to smooth out grain flow. We extend the flighting for edible beans for they seem to be one of the worst seeds to get threw transition area. I would also think the turret systems could us a full 1_4" thick flighting vertical auger or chrome it. Catch ya later

 

[slims]

we have had welding shops weld on new flighting for us, they can be preety tricky because the welds pull and make the auger hit and they also need to be balanced so they do not shake you out of the cab when unloading. as far as the clean grian chain the paddles are a good idea for not wearing, but most of the ones that i have seen with the harder paddles tend to wear out the elevator fairly easy. you should change your acc. rolls when you can stick a pencil down thru them. once they are beyond that they do not throw the material onto the grain pan as well. also how many hours are on your machineIJ hope this helps!!!

 

[NDDan]

Hey slims did you notice below on low power post that you have no coments and somehow my post from another subject ended up there. STRANGE. I hear you on welding new flighting to old shaft or tube. If you don't have very equal welds and even you build a very wobbly auger. We'll weld short piece to repair an auger hear or there. Not worth it for us to screw around to much cutting off and replaceing complete flighting. Taking care to keep welds even and if you have the spare time it may be worth it for some to attempt the flighting only!!!!

 

[bh]

Had the unloading auger flighting replaced once on an F3. I personally would never do that again. The auger was not balanced and hit inside the tube. I suppose if someone could balance the auger and make sure it was straight that would be okay, but might cost as much as a new auger. I have always been curious about the poly paddle chains, but could never get up the never to try one. Always wondered if they were so much better why the factory wouldn't use them. My two cents. bh

 

[slims]

yeah that is kind of weird, i was going to say to check the piece of 1_8 pipe that screws into the aneroid. i have saw a few of these crack or completely break off.

 

[NDDan]

Yes for sure any leak after the intake manifold is bad bad bad. There is an orfice in the fitting at intake manifold that does not allow any room for escaping air after it. A lose of air will result in lose of signal to fuel aneroid and unable to signal turbo wastegate to start wasteing the excess boost. Take care

 

[R_O_M]

If the grain tank section of the unloader auger is in good order, take it out and hard surface the outer 2 inches of the circumference using powder hard facing material and the gas torch. Its not difficult, just time consuming but it will treble or more, the life of the flighting. Do the grain augers under the sieves too if you are looking for longetivity. To get them out, grind off the pop rivets holding the bottom of the elevators on and when replacing use 5mm bolts.

 

[Booth_Farms]

Sorry I have been so long in responding but have been trying to get the first cutting of hay up. I dont think I ever have got so much hay wet as we have this year. I need to get done, mow the CRP and start working on the combine. My machine has 1314 seperator hours and 1845 engine hours. I pulled the rotor Saturday and it looks like I need to install some new helicals, a few new bars etc. Thanks for the comments.