Combines unloading auger

WE put in a in-line valve and then adjusted it to a speed we liked. I think we got it from Gemplers. WE just cut the hose and had proper ends put on to let us connect to the purchased valve. Kirk

there are supposed to be brass restricters in the fitting directely on top of the hydrolic valve. was told sometimes they come loose and eventually deteriate. this happened on my n7. what i did was take those fittings off, went to the wire welder and welded them completely shut, and then took a 1_64 drill bit and drilled a hole through them. reinstaled and worked great. good luck chad

Which hydraulic valve are you talking aboutIJThe electric_hyd. selenoid on the valve stack on the back of the combineIJThanks for your help.

yes, that is the one. take the hose off, and then that fitting screws out of the top of the valve stack. i should have been more specific. chad

Thanks for the info.I'll give it a try.

I always cut the throttle on the F2 when it gets close to landing.

which cylinder did you rebuild, the problem is in the double acting side - the one with two hoses - after which it will take several cycles to bleed. If the single acting cyl is at fault it will leak outside otherwise it is fine. As to the swing out, it is a timing thing. The module keeps pressure to the cyonder for a specified time. Position doesn't matter. IF it stops at low idle then there is a flow problem, if it kicks out in less than 20 seconds - think I am right on that - it is a module issue - partn 71362536 . You can time it and listen to the engine sound to determine pressure. Stop the auger at half in - if it lowers by itself at a visual rate - the packing could be at fault. No repairable parts - (the old N's had a replacable timer relay) - might find a used one - we might have a used module.

T-bran thanks for the advise but it wasn't the problem on the unloading auger. There are 2 orifice's on the top of the valve body under the 2 hoses. One of them had come out and was just floating around like a b-b, which allowed the auger to move sometimes when the opening happened to be in the right location. Funny sometimes when a 1_4" piece the size of a lock collar set scew can stop you. As to the header I think it was just air in the lines. Again thanks.

How ironic! I'm having the same problem today only in milo that when I get a wet spot going through it slows down then the clutches slip. Should be able to handle it. I've had the combine 7 years and never ran into a problem before. Seems to work fine when it is dry. I was told to check the brushes in the switch on the end of the shaft. Mine looks fine. May have to replace magnetic clutch. I'm afraid once it has slipped it won't last for long. I don't see any other reason for it not to be moving the grain out. Turns free when empty. Just started harvesting. Shields over the bottom auger are adjusted about half way open.

Very doubtfull the clutch. My bet is square shaft next to ujoint may have gave it up or the rubber shock absorber within unloading auger that swings out has striped out. Square shaft is on outward side of ujoint and meshes into rubber drive. You'll have to determine if auger in bottom of tank is tring to go but can't push material into swinging auger that is not turning due to broken shaft or striped out rubber drive. Best of luck