Combines unloading auger

is your alternater up to snuffIJIJIJ

I think so but I will check on that. EVERYTHING else seems to work just fine. I would think the seperator clutch would slip if the voltage was lowIJ

Check the flighting in the transition area from the bin auger to the swing out auger. If the flighting is worn in this area it will build up and cause the drive to slip.

After putting in a new shock in the auger and then getting a new electric clutch the auger works when the door on the auger is open, but when we close the door everything stops. The flighting is worn in the transition area, can we repair this or do we have to get a new flighting and do the two augers have to be timed in this area. I bought this combine this year because I was tried of fixing my old one, I have spent two days working on this one and I will be working on it tomorrow. Thanks for any advice you can give me. John

Here is what I learned today. Brush holder was only putting out 7 volts on mine...a bit over 12 leading to it. I replaced the brush holder and the auger works as long as I run it near full speed. If I auger on the idle the clutch slips. I know this isn't normal as I have used the auger at engine idle many times before. I think the clutches have slipped enough they are shot. Also today, I had the brush holder on the seperator short out and blow a fuse. Took awhile to find as I thought it was a wiring problem before or after the brush holder. Took clutches apart thinking it could be them. Put it all back together and could engage the clutch without blowing a fuse but with combine running the fuse blew immediately. Aaaa those electrical problems.

1_4" flighting on both sides of universal joint are available individually. I would imagine you would of noticed if bolts holding inner yoke to auger in bottom of hopper were missing. There is some chance stub bolted to auger in bottom of tank has broken loose from yoke (I believe there was a time this was a welded in stub and I believe this was also solid piece at one time) Maybe if you had auger folded into saddle and tried turning with pipe wrench on the other side you would be able to detect if something is slipping when turning hard on way or the other. You didn't find auger or tube built up with mud or anything when you had out for shock did youIJ I don't bother tring to watch timing of flighting for I don't believe it matter. Someone can correct me if they found out differently. Might want to close tins down in auger if all else fails but I highly doubt you should have to in corn. This is turning out to be a weird one. Please let us know what you find. Oh and it would be good idea to check voltage to and after brusholder as well. I wouldn't want more that a couple volt drop accross brusholder with negative on one of the clutch screws and positive on the other screw. Be sure screws are securing eyelits to clutch posts well. Best of luck

Will wet milo stick to auger flighting and or tubeIJ You might want to see how your 1_4" flighting near ujoint looks and the flighting on swinging auger looks. Do you hear any thumping noise before clutch slips out (sliping shock absorber in swinging auger will do this if it is starting to slip prior to clutch leting loose). If engine pulls down when tring to unload at idle I would say clutch is OK. Clutch will likely be some weaker than new but normally clutch will flat out not engage from open circuit or blow fuse from shorted clutch. Be sure wire between brusholder and clutch is OK. Maybe have someone in seat with key and clutch on while you push and pull on wires as centrifical force will do when clutch is spinning. Good luck

is the unload auger flighting ok at the outer end--mine curled back once.

I do have some buildup on the auger flighting. Enough that it may affect the flow of the grain to make the auger drive a little harder. But not a lot. It's mainly on the edge of the flighting past the U-joint. Yes, I feel a thumping vibration just before the clutch stops. Not severe but some and I hear the belt tightener start to chatter some. Engine does pull down some when unloading at idle just before the clutch slips. Replaced the wires from brush holder to clutch when I replaced brush holder so I think I'm OK there. I always tie down the wires so I don't get the centrifical effect. Thanks for the info. I think I had better replace the shock absorber.

I'll check, thanks.