Combines Whats the most trouble some area on a GleanerIJ

[tbran]

Hum, this 'set up' basically covers all Gleaners from 1972 to 2006. We service over 200 combines R,s l's M's F2-3' N's etc.. I am sure you have had trouble in the are you state but from the other side as to what we fix the most..... We sold 5 brush holders of n 71314321, 71331661 and 71314325 all together from all stores for these 200 + machines. One service call turned out to be a seat module and one belt that wiped out the lh main brush holder assy.. We have several machines with 2000 plus hours with the origional set up, never touched. What I suspect your situation is , is you had a legit failure and the wires never got back to factory specs as to retention etc. The dirt build up is a maintainance item. Needs weekly care as to blowing out, being careful not to damage system with jabs from a blowgun tube. The more road hours a machine gets the more wear on the idler brgs here. They do not turn when the machine is harvesting. Again, we did not sell a separator clutch arm nor mag for a R62-72 65-75 this year . This is a super setup compared to some others I have seem including our on old N series with the split shaft. On my list this is down a few pages. I would suggest a winter tear down and reinstall in a 'bullet proof' manner with lots of plastic ties while not in the heat of battle. From a service standpoint we kind of wish there was an area we regularly did repair work. On the R series it is almost a different little or big quirk every time the shop phone rings. Several years ago we went through the main clutch shaft era. After one failure the torque on the RH side was maintained so we have few repeat failures here. We did have a customer fail three but it turned out to be a bent main shaft so that is something we tell folks to check now as well. It will be intersting to see what pops up here. MAybe if there are those with repeat failure areas we can help out or make aware some updates that have transpired through the years.

 

[T3]

I'm not real happy with the unloading auger pivot. The collar gets worn, all the balls fall out, unloading auger hits truck or ground, make me say lots of bad things. Seriously, I think this is one of the weakest parts of the Gleaner. I have one pivot that has the nylon plates in it that came from an after market vendor and really like it better than the OEM. I may not count in your question as I have 2 M2's.

 

[calvin]

OK, I was intending info on 62-72 and 65-75. All models described above have the seperator idler bearing howling with in 600 hours that i have been around except one.

 

[Brian]

Seperator clutches have never given us an ounce of trouble. Put our first brush holder on our R-72 this fall at just over 3,200 hours. Do have to replace idler bearing on our R-60 every 500-800 hours. Only reoccuring bearing that goes on us is for the header drive. We seem to have to replace every 600 sep. hours. Have one now however that only made last 50 hours of this season. About my only complaint on our R-72 is I would like to break-up a few less cobbs in a couple corn hybrids. It is an insignifigant complaint probably but I like " State Fair" quality samples high rates of speed. Sometimes that is impossible. If the CDF and St John's cylinders work like several claim then I'll be thrilled.

 

[NDDan]

I think seperator clutch area is an excellent setup with exception of life from inside idler bearing. This bearing and its mate with oring on its OD stands still during harvesting. This causes pockets where the balls decide to sit thus it starts to howl with seperator disengaged. If let go to long it can wobble out the sheave. If it wasn't so easy to replace bearing there would be alot more complaining. What we finally did this year is purchase a double ball bearing for the inside position. We shorten the spacer between bearing by 10mm as well as have pulley bore deepened by 10mm. This allows the 10mm double ball bearing to fit right in with no further changes. I'm sure this will stretch life close to when it is time for other bearings to get tired. We've been using a split roller bearing in seperator clutch area of the old Ns and early Rs to dramatically stretch out time for when it gets to growling. As for wire trouble we have had a couple that wire broke loose from eyelit but most is unsecured wire from missing tie wraps. We use a bunch of good quality white ties to hold snug. Cheap tie wraps will vanish thus wire goes wild. Make sure idler pulley for unloader clears wire ties by a decent amount. Keeping pulley blown clean from time to time will keep it in balance thus wires won't break away from eyelits. Brusholders have been very good. This surprises me for they are feeding two clutches threw it. Most brusholders get replaced only because belt broke and got into it. Very uncommon. I think second most machanical troublesome area I could pick out is straw spreader bearings. We cure that with the use of triple lip sealed bearings or on new machines we order the hydralic spreader. Otherwise I have no major complaints on any specific area. These machines are very well refined in my opinion. We can handle any specific hyperizing left to do to rotor area but would like company to streamline feeder like we do to handle toughest conditions and mega flow. Have a great day.

 

[turbo]

We tried the double bearing idea. It did not last any longer.

 

[turbo]

Are you talking about the bearing next to the feeder house pivotIJ

 

[NDDan]

I'm hoping I have better luck than that. It sure works in seperator clutch area of old machines. Bearing I found is one piece sealed on both sides with two rows of balls (twice the surface area supporting). Don't know how you did yours but be sure they bored housing wide and deep enough for as not to put undo preload on bearing. Did your bearing start to growl or did it failIJ Do you have P_N on bearing you used and or dealership that did itIJ TIA

 

[Silver_Shoes]

NDD I agree with your comment about making a quick inspection of that plastic tie when greasing the combine daily. That had been our only problem on the subject, had a tie break and didnt notice it, the electrical wire got to run wild and it messed up the brush holder assembley. Put a new one on and started harvesting again, havent had the tie break again but we do like to take a peek at it, just a piece of mind thing.

 

[Brian]

The one next to the feederhouse clutch. When we change it we just remove clutch and bearing without touching variable speed side of shaft. I've heard that gets a little more involved if one removes entire shaft rather than replacing bearing with shaft in place. Brian