Combines Wide Spaced Cyl Bars in Small Grains

tbran

Guest
you should have no problem. Make sure your cyl is level and channel bars are not worn_dipped about 1_4 ways across. Start with one channel on the door, skip a position then ad the next, skip a row then add the third channel. If you cannot thresh with this combo and your cyl speed is at max w_o cracking (remember speed cracks , not clearance unless you are like at less than the diameter of the seed in cyl to channel spacing - wheat less than 1_16 ") try adding the 4th bar at postion 2 just behind door.A set up we used to use was to run a channel in the door then a half round in postion 3 and 5. In corn we would swap the channel for half round and run this in beans unless they were green and tough then we would put the channel in. In soft red winter wheat we had no problem with wide spaced bars nor with any other crop. We threshed clover, lespedeza etc no probs. Another combo , while I'm ramblin', was using a high profile bar for corn. Some claimed this was the ultimate set up... I saw some good results but stop short from general reccomendation - if a person had time and a few bucks might be worth experimenting with.. On K,F,G's what did work great in milo were concave channel bars. They were super in corn also but took too much power in beans and wheat although they did excellent job of threshing...Just some food for thought..good luck
 

T__langan

Guest
We ran an F3 many moons ago with these wide spaced bars. We mostly did oats for small grains and always had to keep cylinder clearance near zero to get the oats all out. Once we learned the trick, we had no problems. Also, worked great in corn. Take good care of that F2 - those are sweet little Gleaners! Good luck-
 

tj

Guest
Cylinder bars with 1_2 of the teeth removed essentially have no overlap--in some conditions this can allow chunks of heads in small grain to pass thru without being pressed against the concave channels--once they're in there, they go pretty well straight thru, as well.If you have straw which doesn't tear up badly, you may not see this much because the straw will help thresh the grain. If your straw tears up easily, or if you run a light load, the problem can be pretty bad. If lightly loaded conditions occur, you might consider Ausherman concave bars--they're toothed similar to a cylinder bar, and the angle of the teeth can move material sideways and expose it to the leading edges of the cyl. bar teeth to hold it down against the concave threshing surface.
 
 
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