Combines I am stumped 4400 saga continues

[rotor_man]

Glad the fuel pump wiring was an easy fix. Not much chance that the intake gasket has gone bad from being parked, It is made of a rugged material that is not prone to rot or drying out.I have 30 years of experience with those old chev engines, but not as installed in a 4400 JD.Any chance the carb has a fuel cut off solinoid like the 6600 with JD engineIJ, If not it sounds like somthing is plugged between the main jet and the venturi nozzle.

 

[The_Red]

Electronic ignition will be on my list once it is running. But first I have to get it running. Need to stay focused on why I am not getting gas. I rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned the carburetor. Blew out all the channels, etc.

 

[High_Rise]

Just a thought, if you have already done this, never mind.. Take a squirt can of motor oil and shoot a few shots in the spark plug holes then try again. Cylinder walls won't seal w_o oil film on them. Good luck..

 

[The_Red]

Just stopped in for some dinner before I go back out to the combine. I did that 2 weeks ago but I am going to do that again. I had several responses on YTMAG_Tales with that exact reply. I just bought a compression gauge so I will find out how bad the compression is within the hour. I will test compression before I squirt in the oil. I am also going to manually time it. It is possible that the distributor has been out of this engine. So when n1 is on TDC, the rotor may not be pointing at the radiator. I now have, at least, the operator's manual. lots of good tips in the manual. I'll post later today with the compression results.

 

[rotor_man]

Red remember n1 at tdc ON COMPRESSION STROKE. It's easy to get the distributor 180 degrees out of time if you are at tdc on exhaust stroke.

 

[The_Red]

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhh been there done that on a VW engine many moons ago. Today I cleaned the pre cleaner and took the filter home and blew it out between my two visits. No meeses nests and the filter wasn't all that dirty from bean dust. I pulled the 6 plugs and removed the valve cover. Rocker arm and valve stems looked great and very clean. I shot 3 big squirts of 10W30 in each cylinder and cranked for awhile. The valves were all opening and closing. Saw nothing hanging up. During this part of my surgery, I observed n1 exhaust and intake valves open_close. I tapped the starter and stuck a screwdriver in the plug hole. When the piston was all the way up, the rotor was pointing to the radiator. HOWEVER the timing mark was not in sight. So I tried this a couple of more times. When the timing mark was in the correct position, n1 piston was at the BOTTOM of the stroke. Could someone have gotten the timing pulley on incorrectlyIJ Also NAPA sold me the wrong compression gauge so I could not check cylinder pressure. I re-installed everything and installed a new coil. I did check the negative side of the coil with a wire to the manifold and it sparked nicely. So I got juice going down to the points. I could not see the points spark because my arm ain't long enough to turn the starter and observe the spark. Started to squirt starter fluid and cranked. She was backfiring through the carb on every third engine stroke. I continued to repeat this process and slighty move the distributor each time. It never got better. After eating through two batteries, I pulled the plugs. 1,2,3 were wet with 3 partially wet. I would guess it was the one firing. 4,5,6 were dry though. Tomorrow I will install a new distributor cap and spark plug wires. That will eliminate that variable. I did exchange and now have the correct cylinder compression gauge, so I will check them tomorrow. Any thoughts on the timing mark and its relationship to n1 pistonIJIJ

 

[rotor_man]

WOW!! this is a weird oneIJ The damper pulley is keyed to the crankshaft and has only one keyway. It is impossible to install it wrong unless the key is sheared or missing( never saw one do that) If you are absolutly sure there is no mark when the n1piston is up, then the damper has failed. As part of it's function to dampen crankshaft vibrations, the damper is made of three pieces. 1 the crankshaft hub 2 a rubber ring that connects the hub and the outer ring 3 the outer ring with the v belt groovs and timing marks. When the rubber ring deteriorates it allows the outer ring to move in relation to the hub which puts the timing marks off in relation to the crankshaft. You could put a new temporary timing mark with a marker pen if you use care to get as close as possible to tdc. This should work to get it home. Get a new damper on as soon as possible, as a bad damper is no longer protecting the crank from vibration and can cause a broken crankshaft.

 

[beet]

RED the first thing you need is alonger arm .any chance that the timing chain could get out of time on that engine . what about stuck rings or a bad piston . these are only ideas i hope i am away off base here whitch i probably M.the boys have a field car that is acting the same way and these are things that a want a be mechanics have suggest to me .i suppose that there is no blockeage in the intake manifold . i would think that the plugs would be soaked in gas after that much cranking

 

[The_Red]

Interesting. I thought it was a solid pulley from the looks. Your observation would be the only logical reason why the timing mark is not in the correct positon though. I thought it was a solid pulley from just looking at it. Hopefully new plug wires will help today. It will be late afternoon before I go over.

 

[The_Red]

I had a couple of emails on the timing portion. It is gears in this machine. That would only affect the valve synchronization if the gears were off.